I reckon it is normal, but I had never heard or noticed that sound before. The motor runs fine and I have not heard the buzzing sound again. I guess the rotor has to be parked at just the right spot to make that sound. Never would have heard it with the cowling on I don't think. Franz said...
Haven't noticed any wakeboat Captains on here trying to defend their "Sport". Not one. This is their own forum, too. Reminds me of the "coal rollers" on some diesel truck forums......they were despised by most, although the EPA has clamped down on them pretty hard recently, including the ones...
Man, what are the odds of both engines going south at the same time? Luckily that one was only a partial failure and you made it back ok. Going miles out into the Pacific is serious business. That is why I mentioned that post about adding a VR and possible failure. Having twin engines might...
Saw your other post where you found damage under the flywheel......hope that fixes your problem. As for batteries, just make sure you get one that you can add distilled water to.....no maint free/AGM. The VR I used is the one suggested in the sticky at the top about "high charge voltage". It...
Sorry if this was mentioned earlier, but on these motors that have only a rectifier (no voltage regulator) the battery itself acts as a VR. This is why maintenance free (sealed) and AGM should not be used. The CDI trouble shooting guide for your rectifier says the following in all caps...DO...
Hey, no problem at all. I guess what Franz was saying is that if the rotor was parked on or near one of the HT-wire terminals in the cap, then one of the 3 windows in the disc would be in the correct position to fire the CD module? Does that make sense? I can't remember which position (open or...
Nordin, I called Franz just now.....he is still in business.....says he has too much stuff to sell and get rid of before he can retire. That is good news for those of us who still run these old engines and need help from time to time. I don't mind paying more for his parts because he will...
Nordin and jerry, thanks for replying. I wanted to run this by yall before I started making calls. I have talked to both Franz and Bill Kelly in the past.....they are a dying breed for sure when it comes to the old school knowledge of these old motors. Last time I talked to them they were...
I have never heard that sound from a distributor, either. I got a brand new OEM preamp from Franz. I had to take the rotor/shaft out to replace the preamp, but it went back together fine and is running good. Before it stopped making that noise I was able to put my ear up to the distributor...
Was going to start my motor on muffs with the cowling off......turned the key on and pushed in for the choke. Then I noticed a faint buzzing sound coming from the distributor. Then it stopped. I hit the choke again, and it did it again, briefly. Have never heard that noise before. I went...
The shaft looked good. I was just surprised how bad that impeller looked. Most of the time they almost look good enough to reuse. But if I go to the trouble of dropping the LU it's getting a new one. (y)
It's the one that came with the kit I bought from MasterTech......I believe it is a GLM kit, with new housing, bolts, gasket, and plate. Doing spark and compression tests is the only time it was cranked dry. Never started the engine dry.
Put a new water pump kit on my motor last week. It has been about 3 1/2 years since I changed this one. It is by far the worst looking one I have ever seen come out of this engine. The book says to change it every year, some folks say it can go five years or so. I usually do it every 3...
You might try posting in the Restoration forum or the Boat Topics and Questions forum about what paint to use.......there are lots of folks there that could point you in the right direction.
Before I painted my LU I considered leaving it bare aluminum. I polished it up good with some Flitz and it looked good. After one use it turned an ugly black color. I guess it is not the kind of aluminum that can resist tarnishing very well. So it got painted.
Nice work on that tapping job. I use yellow teflon tape on the threads that is made for natural gas lines and is oil resistant. Has worked well for me so far. I also use a hex head socket when removing or tightening the plug. Seems to fit better and less likely to slip and bugger up the...
In most cases, you HAVE to do your own work on these motors. The shops around here will not even look at an old Chrysler or Force, let alone do any work on them. If they can't plug in their laptop to give them a diagnostic code, they really don't want to mess with it. Old school trouble...
