If it's not leaking oil, Not sure I'd do anything, same with the pump, the important parts are the impeller, the impellers cup and wear plate, again
not sure I'd do anything??
JB Weld or sillycone.
IF???? there's no gap??? then you missed a nut somewhere???
I'm guessing the middle of the drive a deep hole with a nut way up inside????
Take a pic(might need 2-3 of the bottom side of the cavitation plate showing the screw holes with the fin removed.
Your control/shifter is called :
Remote Control-4000 Side Mount(Power Trim)(if it has power trim)
The difference would be the non power tilt wouldn't have a T@T switch.
The safety switch is :
SWITCH ASSEMBLY
91941A8 about 25$
LANYARD ASSEMBLY
15920Q54 NLA but can be found on Ebay...
This post is a year old and the original poster doesn't seem to be on here very much??
You need to start your own thread.
The change over: your best bet is try to find a 9.9/15 with points and use the parts from there.
I imagine that most hard parts(timer base, plug wires, flywheel etc., your...
I see the pics of the motor. That's NOT a 94 more like a 96-99 with the Mercury lower unit.
If there's no screw under the trim fin then there are 5 nuts holding the drive on .
Look up inside?
If it drops any? then don't come down. The splines might be twisted and holding the drive in place.
Is the idle tube loose? No? then I wouldn't worry about it.
The pic shows foam floats, they don't usually go bad unless
someone has hit them with something that melts the foam.
The position of the float when the carb is upside down should be level
with the body of the carb.
The drop (float)...
14 just might be a record??
The exhaust cover wit all the 1/4-20 screws is were I break the most.
That's why I NEVER remove the cover unless it's a complete rebuild.
The heat and the cool down and then heat again tends to eat away
the edges of the aluminum and then the gaskets don't want to...
Top carb.Start at 1 1/2 turn out and adjust from there.
If it doesn't idle maybe anther 1/2 turn out?
The adjustment, motor warm, in the water and in gear.
Turn the screw 1/8th turn in and wait 10 seconds, continue until the motor bucks coughs or stalls then out 1/2 turn.
Then repeat on the...
Yours does have a relief screw, on the bottom white screw.
WD-40 or any penetrating spray, spray liberally.
Turn to the left.
I see a BIG problem, your boats growing black hair :)
First!!! those numbers across the board are low.
With a good gauge they should be 145-155 maybe even higher, even a new gauge(Harbor Freight Tools) can give bad results.
I think they started in 95 the 120 came from the factory with the top and bottom cyl. lower by 10# than the 2 middle cyl...
Yup, disassemble the lower and screw it back in.
Find a parts diagram and use that for a reference, take pics as
you proceed.
You might find using assembly grease will help hold the pieces
together while you assemble.
The diaphragm in the pic is bad, it should be smooth and no swelling.
Finding a new carb, nope.
There's a used one on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Tillotson-Quicksilver-1300-F712061-Marine-Carburetor-In-Box-A2153/203343014419?hash=item2f58302a13:g:JW4AAOSwe95gY0zO
But you probably...
Helps to know what were working on?
The carb can have 2 different needle/seat combo's.
One needle can have a rubber tip and a solid seat, the other a solid tip and
an o-ring in the seat.
Some cleaners can hurt the rubber in the needle/seats and melt plastic if there's any used
and can swell the...
