leaky seal under tha water pump............. unburnt fuel mixture goes out tha hub with exhaust....... if bad enough it makes tha prop look nasty............
there is only supposed ta be one way for gear oil ta exit tha case and thats tha two drain/fill plugs.. if its leaking anywhere else ya...
understand completely.. lost my best friend 4 years ago myself.. jus happen ta be my 48 year old son........ i'm gettin' pretty short on tha clock also...
call 'em whatever ya want.. but if ya say "steel sleeve" most in their right mind know exactly what ya talkin' about................. its actually an iron alloy.
tha "XR4 is and was tha only 2.4 steel sleeve motor from production ever built".. it was offered in '91 and was a 2.4 but was in a "fat block" design and over lapped tha XR6 in '91.. from 1991 everything from production was steel sleeve motors (no more chrome anything) and in tha new design...
'91 (first year of tha "fat block") anything is gonna be a steel sleeve motor... '91 175 should be a bottom guided steel sleeve 2.5 motor......... would be almost tha same as tha XR6... different tuner and carburetors.... normal size (4 3/4") gear case.
can't go wrong with tha XR6 in my opinion... simple and very dependable (pre cdm ign.).. depending on year of tha XR6 as to which gear case it has... tha XR4 and first years of tha 6 had tha small case with 1.78 gears and tha only motors ta have a small case.. tha 4 being a tad weaker (smaller...
jan... you would be ahead by removing tha lower cowls also.. four 1/4 20 screws (either 3/8 or 5/16 head under neath tha cowl.. a little more work but well worth it for removing and replacing tha poppet.....
you should be able ta lift it enough ta put a little more on 'em jus in case.. a short socket ona torque wrench should go under it maybe.. they probably don't need much more.... jus be careful, those two tend ta break easily........
tha two in tha middle, (5/16) a little at a time, are 25 ft. lbs.... 3 (3/8) bigger ones on tha rear outside are 50 ft. lbs... tha 10 (9/16) nuts on tha studs are (my version) tight as ya can get 'em with a 6" 9/16 box end (sequenced, back and forth across clockwise, jus like a...
sayin' a little squirt is ok, most don't know what a wiff is, (maybe for tha experienced) is like givin' some a hand grenade with tha pin already pulled... jus a fact.
a little squirt or even a big squirt of pre-mix is ALWAYS SAFE...... jmo.
goes in to a "T" you add in tha hose going down to tha poppet at tha "top of tha block"............... tha "T" has ta close to tha top as possible......
yes.. move ALL wires from the inside box to the outside box and ALL wires from outside box to tha inside..... this is just at tha switch boxes only....
one thing you can do since you suspect #5.. swap tha switch boxes around.. if it stays tha same then it leads to tha trigger.. if it follows then ya have a switch box problem....
