???----These motors have hole in the cylinder wall.-----Bleeds off a bit of compression at cranking speeds.-----So 105 might be normal on one of these.
Changing the driveshaft would be the quick way for me.----If you go that way the replacement shaft and pinion will need to be shimmed.---------Your location ?
Have you checked the shift switch ???----An item found on the MOTOR linkages.----Shuts off spark to 3 cylinders during shifting.----If it is sticky ???
There is no electrical shut off on mine.----Likely stalls / shuts off when you retard throttle.-----Or close fuel valve when you approach the dock.----Let motor run to empty the carburetor.
Was the impeller replaced as part of the work ?----Maybe something is stuck in a reed valve.------Maybe it over heated and then blew the head gasket.-----Maybe the fuel pump diaphragm ruptured.----Easy / economical to replace that diaphragm.---Possibly running on 1 cylinder.-----Does spark jump...
Is the impeller 8" below water level , yes or no ?----Is the water tube properly installed ( seals in place ) at the top and bottom.----Key to drive the water pump in place.----Did you use factory parts or something else?
I would replace the cup.----Not cheap to buy new.-----E-bay for used might be an option.-----And make sure that washer is in the right place.----When installed the tab on the bottom of the cup MUST fit in a hole.-----Your location?
Many motors ran successfully with 1 seal.-----Many lower units run with 2 identical seals on the propshaft.----It is only the relentless search for companies to try and cut costs / " improve " that results in the consumer loosing.-----We end up with great looking products that are difficult /...
You want to see about 120 PSI on the 112 HP and the same on the E-tec.---Post the numbers here.-----Check with your local shops to see if they work on these motors first.-----You will be shocked at what simple repairs cost at some shops.