Throttle plate has holes in it to allow air / fuel to go in at idle.----In neutral you open throttle until you hit the interlock.----Throttle plate should open slightly.----Ignore start mark on the grip.----Does choke go on and stay on when you try and start it.---Electric choke or manual choke ?
Repair your carburetor.----Inspect reed valves.----Check to see if choke goes closed and stays closed when attempting to start motor.----In my opinion this should be an easy repair.
Remove sparkplugs.----Put 6 -1/2 drops of fuel in each hole.----Install sparkplugs.------Pull on the recoil 10 times if needed.----Report what happens.
Try another prop.-----And myself I would not hesitate to pull the simple lower unit apart for inspection.----In my opinion the bronze bushing above the pinion is not up to the task,-----Perhaps it is egg shaped leading to issues with gear mesh.----Could be the clutch dog and forward gear edges...
This is a known issue with " high tech " parts.------Also a known issue with outsourced parts and suppliers.-----Old ignitions could be refurbished by real mechanics in the day.----Carburetors could be repaired / rebuilt.-----But your mechanic today can not build a fuel injector / a sensor /...
No mention of the cost to buy one.------No mention of the cost of ownership.----Leasing might be a good idea for a while.-------No mention of insurance and repair costs.----A vehicle for " well to do " members of the public I think.
You can not identify motors by a trim switch.---They did not make a crossflow 90* V-4 in 2000 model year.-----Your lower unit could be from about a 78 to a 98 model 90* crossflow.-----You will see that impeller is the same for all years.----Seal kit is the same part # as well.
In my opinion the original lower unit to your motor had a design flaw.-----The lower unit on there now is a good one.----But if you just bought this motor you never know what was installed.-----I would take that apart in a heart beat for inspection / new seals.----Easy for me to do !
