only thing you can do is weigh the boat and compare to their specs.
Its not that unusual for boat companies to get the static water line issue wrong and it got worse with the Vortec series of engines. Everyone liked the extra power but static water line became even more critical.
OK well I think that's too low. Mine were like 14-15". Think about getting the taller elbows, every boat sits a bit different in the water, and you don't want a recurrance of salt water in the cyls. If you don't want to get involved in fitting taller elbows, then get the flapper at least.
Keep...
am I reading this right, from the gunnel to the water line you are 35", from the gunnel to the tops of the elbows you are 22" so 35"-22"=13", looks like you are right at the spec. I'd find a flapper to fit in place of that exhaust tube, measure the outside diameter of the flange, to prevent a...
Looks like yours came with the exhaust tube instead of the exhaust bellows. And yes there is a small bellows at the top of the shift cable tube inside the boat where the shift cable comes out. This one normally is part of a a new shift cable assembly, but probably be replaced separately if it...
Yep the most I had to raise mine is 1/2 way up just run at idle in the shallows I have never had to change the ujoints in this boat…they are original….
He did the u joint bellows but not the exhaust bellows. Part #21, there's a hose clamp on the fwd end and a C-clip style retainer on the aft end. You'd have to pull the drive to install this. Either that, or remove the exhaust tube and install a proper size flapper.
That can be tricky to measure but here's how I did it.
Took a piece of wood long enough to overhang the gunnels on both sides. And a tape measure. Then hung over the gunnel and measured down from the wood on the gunnels (placed right over the exhaust elbows) to the water. Now, record that...
OK the white line on the harmonic balancer should be at zero on the timing tab when your #1 cyl is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke, this is what you have to verify. So when the white line and the zero mark on the timing tab line up, your engine should be at TDC for the compression...
How high is the water relative to the Y pipe?
Was the exhaust bellows recently removed or was it always like that? I think you should re-install it, remove that exhaust tube because it leaves the exhaust passage wide open to water rushing in, or put a flapper over that opening instead.
the connections for the fuel pump look a little sketchy, might want to go over them & make sure they are clean and tight.
I had a problem with a sticky anti siphon valve on my boat years ago, I was not familiar with marine fuel systems then, my mechanics caught it and the boat has run fine ever...
well when the plastic screen was covered with them that's what I had to do, had to come up with a way of using 3 scissor jacks to get it apart, then cleaned it all out and painted it INSIDE too!
Why I'm getting an outboard next time! Amongst other reasons....
I used two bolts on the front drive...
You could try the spray wand but mine has just 4 big holes so I just spray it pointing down, up and straight thru. And I only get a couple after a season in salt (5-6 months). After spraying make sure the holes are open, I doubt that the paint will clog them because the spray on Trilux is very thin.
If you read through Load Rite's documentation on hot dip galvanizing you can see that it does galvanize the inside of the box section as well and from everywhere I can see the inside of the frame on my old '94 is galvanized, or else I would probably not have had it this long!
But I have seen...
You can remove the thermostat housing and the front circulating pump and look inside the intake manifold and the block, you can't see much but it will give you an idea how much corrosion there is inside. If all you saw was light surface corrosion that's one thing but flaking rust, will continue...
100% you must spray in there or else you'll have barnacles if you are leaving the boat in salt water. In fact my OMC Cobra had a plastic water screen in there that I had to remove because I had a chronic problem even when painting it, with barnacles clogging the water inlet. Much better since I...
If you’ve got a whining fuel pump be sure to check the anti siphon valve on the gas tank. They can corrode and/or get clogged with debris from the tank. There is also a screen on the fuel tank pick up tube that can get clogged. These are fairly common problems that can cause whining & premature...
Ok on this engine the cooling water is pumped up from the water intakes thru the pivot mount then it gets pumped thru the transom mount. Next it flows thru the P/S cooler on the back of the engine then flows forward to the thermostat housing. The cool water initially flows out the exhaust...
I flush out the box section of my galvanized Load Rite every time it goes in the water and it’s held up well. The frame is a 1994 that’s been upgraded few times (longer tongue, longer roller bars, 6,000 lb axle, 5 leaf springs and 12” brakes)….
