What is the recommended WOT rpm for your engine? If you are close or at the top now I would think dropping 2" in pitch and adding the 4th blade would keep you relatively close to where you are now .
I have run 4 blades on my last two boats really like what they do for all aspects of boating (...
By brake themselves, do you mean if the trailer gets loose it needs to apply the brakes or a mechanical parking brake feature? The surge brake system with discs I put on my trailer has a breakaway feature that applies the brakes if the trailer gets loose from the tow vehicle
2516 is a performer rpm manifold. The performer rpms are indeed intended for higher rpm applications ( aka not basically stock marine) than the standard dual plane, basically a bridge between historically dual plane and single plan intake rpm ranges.
yes go with the eps manifold, will be better...
yes rear mounts can sag, and as pointed out the transom integrity in an older boat is also suspect.
If the mounts were sagging the coupler would be lower than the gimbal bearing when viewed through the bearing. If you can take a pic through the bearing and see the coupler we might be able to...
yeah your other boat is ok. I had a 3.0 for 20 years after 800 hrs pulling tubes and skiers still had 140-145 psi, which given how many hours it was above 4 k rpm is pretty amazing.
if you replaced the rockers, balls and nuts maybe you have a parts mismatch ? Maybe try a set of poly locks?
I think you will have best luck with JB weld, which over time probably will break off eventually.
Hey if it leaks a little but doesn't get water in oil, who cares. Center State Engine was selling reconditioned bare blocks on ebay or be patient you can probably find a good running tear out.
Over inflation can result in premature wear in center of tread, if you don't see more wear/less remaining tread depth down the middle of tire I wouldn't worry about it
https://www.pakwheels.com/blog/dangers-inflating-tires/overinflation/
You can use your shift plate, but unless you swap a alpha ignition module for the bravo ignition module the shift interrupt wont work.
if you look into it they (Merc) make these Gen + crate engines in both alpha and bravo configurations with different hp ratings . Same with the alpha bravo 357...
The 325 is a mercruiser crate engine intended for bravo drives. The silver package is a partial engine MM puts together from a new base engine. If you have an alpha drive the 325 hp one wont work due to lack of shift interrupt with the bravo TBV ignition module. I think merc makes a 300 hp...
I bought a 5.0 silver package plus manifolds and elbows off Them six years ago When i repowered from a 4.3. They tweaked the kit to eliminate the fuel pump and substituted a tbolt distributor for the delco, maybe they will do the same for you? I just preferred to stay with stock merc ignition...
Check the filter and dist cap as advised first. I use ethanol pump gas in my seadoo for years , no issue in the spring. So many issue blamed on ethanol without due diligence troubleshooting,
is the amberjack an inboard or something like a TRS drive that uses a separate transmission ? Are you looking at swapping complete drivetrain or just the engine and use what is in the sundancer ? I assume sundancer is outdrive ?
