Depending on where the fuelinlet on the mercarb is and where it is on teh rochester you may have to bend or make a new fuel line to meet up on the adjacent side of the carb. The two carbs shar a common lineage as merc started with the mercarb after GM/Rochester stopped making carbs in the late...
You may need to disassemble clean and rebuild the carbs. Likely you may be running lean. What do spark plugs look like ?
running a jet out of the water even at idle will reduce the load on the engine as thee is no drag on impeller. My jet ski idles 1200 or so rpm faster on the trailer vs in...
hard to tell where its comng from but my inital thoughts are exhaust flapper which is in the exhaust down pipe just below the elbow , or lose rocker arm
Yeah feel the same way. I repowered 21 ft BR from a 4.3 to a 5.0, should have just stepped over the 5.0 and done a 5.7…. Biggest engine offered in my boat was a 5.0 mpi, thought a 5.7 would be too much, have yet to own a boat with too much power ….
If using an of the shelf crate motor not originally intended for marine applications - just make sure you verify the cam will work in a marine application. Generally truck cams are ok but if it is a muscle car crate engine you will need a cam swap.
Just on parts availability alone the merc...
its a 1/4" npt plug not 1/4 -20 . Be carfeul with the excractor as they can snap off in there. Yes I would apply heat as long as you dont go nuts with it you will be ok.... Worst case just drill it out and retap with a pipe tap.
oh man I missed that. Ok thats a different story . Now I feel better about paying $3k ... You can always counter offer or ask his squeel point. Id have a tough time paying $8 k if I couldnt do a compression test and see oil pressure... but people are paying stupid money for boats now. I suspect...
Agreed that it is always funny to see boats cars etc listed with easy fix... why wouldnt seller fix it and get more money for a runner.
Either of those issues at $800 I still think its a deal. I would do a compression test cold to see if the longblock is in good shape.
I bought a couple of...
You may be able to borrow one from an auto parts store that rents tools. Long term you will want to fix your tach in dash anyways. You may just turn the knob on the back and see if it comes in line.
17 or 18" really just depends on prop manufacturer (some are even pitches only some are odd)...
your tach is off or on tge wrong setting (4/6/8 cylinder) if it really was only 2300 rpm you wouldn’t be on plane yet
fix the tach or use a shop tach and find out where you are at wot rpm before playing with props. in a nut shell if you want more hole shot go down in pitch try a 17 inch or go...
Same thing happened to mine due to the sole fin or whale tail I had on it snapped at the bolt holes find a prop shop or welder and have them weld it inside of upper looks ok
