The 5V sensor reference is not a sensor it is a voltage source for the sensors. If it does not read 5.0 volts, then the data (voltage) from the sensors using that voltage reference will be off. I am not sure which sensors are using VR #1 vs. VR #2
I see the knock retard going up to 5 degrees...
The 5V Sensor Reference #2 is low . . . 4.17 volts vs. 5.01 volts for the Reference #1. It would be best to get that fixed. It could be a faulty sensor bringing the voltage down.
Is there a trim sender that is not connected or not working?
Also, keep in mind that the Bravo 3 propellers are 'matched sets' and the 24 pitch is for the overall set. Individually, you will find the outer propeller has more pitch than the inner propeller. So, you really want to find a matched set.
The first thing that strikes me is the Sensor Supply voltage #2. That voltage looks low, but I am wondering if it is the data from a previous fault. Perhaps you can post some of the current data, or even a recording of the data while the engine is running.
If you have a recording of the data...
Wait a minute . . .
You want to upgrade your boat and are considering a boat that hit a rock, the outdrive is damaged, and you are concerned about doing a compression test on the engine?
Don't waste your time. I would suspect for the time and money that it would take to put it all back in...
Yes, when I pull the boat, I should be able to take the drives off, clean out any debris and backflush everything. If I have enough time, I might do the poor man's fix on the delayed shift.
Here are some before & after 'tying' the cooling systems together . . .
1,000 RPM . . .
2+ psi difference with Stbd higher.
less than 1 psi difference, stbd still higher
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1800 RPM
Stbd still higher by 2+ psi
Stbd & port about even . . .
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The stbd engine psi max'es out at 15-16 psi, while...
That is why I have the sea water strainers. I my area, it seems that stuff grows inside the outdrive water duct, dies over the winter, then detaches from the water duct the next season, where it blocks the intake line at the bell housing fitting. I've had this happen twice. Once was the...
I know that paint in the cool fuel was a problem with the Mercruisers, not thinking it would be the same for the Volvo-Penta engines.
Is the remedy a new fuel module?
Don’t know, I didn’t have the computer with me. Maybe this week I can do a computer recording.
I ran it for a couple of mins at 3800 and no Guardian mode. I bet if I went WOT it would go Guardian 🤔
Morning coffee epiphany. The flush line is only 3/4” ID, so it is a bit restrictive, but it seems to help.
With this - the bets on the ‘shell stuck at the bell housing’ are looking good. 🤣
Quick update. . .
The P/S cooler is hopelessly buried under other hoses and the Popeye valve. So, that may be a project for another day.
As a work-around solution, I tied the 2 cooling systems together using the engine flush feeds. White hose in the picture below ( but don’t tell anyone that...
Here is the jetty that protects the harbor. It used to run all the way across to the right, meeting the land. One of the hurricanes about 40 years ago took the top layer of boulders off. I guess the authorities forgot to fix it . . .
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It seems like once things are built, that's it.
Formula with Big Blocks . . .
We looked at a Formula 330 CBR, but it had 350 MAG SeaCore @ 300HP each IIRC. Seller wanted 20% more than what we were looking at for the CY 338 boats. :rolleyes: The Admiral did not like the cabin access door design.
I do miss BBC Gen6 rollers that were on the...
Yes, on the target (bow) bunks.
As for a longer trailer, it is already 37 feet long, so I'm not wanting to make it any longer. With the truck, I'm at about 56' long.
Braking is when I need to stop. It seems like the surge brakes are not doing their thing and it is all up to the truck. I’ll figure it out. Usually if surge brakes are working, the trailer will stop itself.
