Welcome to iBoats . . .
They are probably #8 fine thread, which would be 8-32. You could get #10 fine thread as well, just in case.
You may also want to get the associated lock washers, as without them the nuts will back off over time.
Often the thru-hull is the preferred solution. I remember considering a 31 PC as a next boat . . . thinking the rear of the engines were nearly impossible to gain access to. As I recall the aft deck extended over the rear portion of the engines.
Also, keep in mind that marine growth (shells...
Probably some glass mat in the keel area . . . sand it smooth . . . and then gelcoat in the larger area around the keel where there are deep scratches.
Looks like keel/bow damage from beaching. There are keel gaurds that you can buy to protect the hull, if you frequently beach the boat.
Check with your local/state authorities on boat registration and titling. Most boats without proof or prior ownership should be avoided, as you won't be able to register & title them in your name.
There may be a process for junk/abandoned boats, but those are not highly known and vary based on...
Yes, to all those things. The IR heat gun can ID where things are going awry. Don't be surprised if it is Bravotis. It is an easy thing to check . . . harder to fix though.
Coming to the end. . . the punch list is almost done.
I'm onto painting
It takes about a day to get the boat up off the trailer enough for bottom paint.
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I raise the boat just enough to get the paint roller past the bunks.
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I did the outdrives with my HVLP sprayer . . . it seems to...
One additional thing to consider is temperature . . . I would float charge the batteries over the winter, but it might be too cold to do so. I think it is OK for charging down to about 0˚F, but not so sure about -10˚F :unsure:
Yes, and it's not like you can just go out and buy something else. Buying a new/new(er) boat tends to be a long term commitment due to the financial aspects.
I am wondering if the BMS will eventually be modified so they don't do a hard shut off. Something more gradual would probably work for the alternators. :unsure:
I just replaced the Alternator on my Ford Explorer . . . $600 for the part + $200-ish in labor :oops:
So, not taking any chances with the boat engines. I figure that I can go with more minimal lead-acid batteries, and as needed, there is a 'parallel solenoid' with a helm switch to combine...
That's the part that I was not quite understanding about the LFP batteries . . . that the LFP batteries actually shut off. So, the 5,10, 20 or even 40 amps of charging current coming from the alternator instantaneously has to find a place to go when the battery shuts off.
