2T=4000#
You don't need to get both wheels off the ground. Just the one that is flat. Half of the weight on one side will still be on the good tire. I have a 26' boat*not quite as heavy as yours) and I have no issues using it on it. Get a 3000# aluminum jack. I have a big tote that I carry a...
I carry an aluminum 2 ton floor jack with me when I tow.
Your plan of driving the good tire will work fine. You may not even have to jack up the flat tire depending on the trailer.
So..out of curiosity, how often do you pull your hub to inspect bearings?
And I am not talking about just pushing grease thru with the LAZ-lube "feature"...actually taking off the hub.
cut off the connectors for the wiring harness and the Mercruiser trim switch and use these.
They are the connectors Cobalt uses throughout their boats...
On my last boat trailer, I welded on an axle stub and mounted a spare hub/disc on it. Then my spare tire was mounted to it. Got a spare tire mount and a spare hub all in one.
Measure the hub and the cap with calipers.
Out of curiosity what is the outer cup/race number? That will tell you the diameter of the hub.
BTW...they do make 2" as well as 1.988" dust caps.
Many inverters have a built in transfer switch. It makes the shore power the priority so that it basically bypasses the inverter function when shore power is live.
If your inverter does not have an internal transfer switch, there would likely be an external transfer switch. Follow the shore...
That was the answer to my question.
Just a BTW, 500# is a very light tongue weight, even for a boat tandem trailer, with 8340# total. Kinda points to a lot of weight towards the rear of the trailer.
My boat/trailer is around 6500# and I am at 600# tongue weight.
LOL...If I had his boat, I would be thinking about putting on an even larger platform. I had a built in platform on my old boat(with a heavy 7.4L engine) and an even bigger built in platform on my current boat. Isn't even close to being an issue for removing the stern drive and is definitely not...