a 1960 18hp magneto probably has 2 condensers bad. ... unless of course they were replaced since the 60s...even done so in the 90's 34 yearsago.... they could still be bad.
proper testing of condensers requires high DC voltages to check from internal leakgae and such voltages are not...
hope this helps..and btw which specific fuse is blowing ??
on the ETEC version ex: 2004-2005 and up the main 10 amp blowing fuse syndrome is frequently and unfortunately a result of an EMM failure,
that said the best thing to do is probably to scrutize the wire diagram and follow...
as we grow older regrets pile up on us.... for not saying what needed to be said for not doing what needed to be done. Buy your wife self a nice welder for Christmas. :)
well....can't say much more from here... are you over choking it ...some chokes works by pushing the key in while turning are you pushing the key in to long ?
is your choke plate stuck shut for some reason ??
is the engine tilted or vertical ? is the fuel coming out vent holes or carb...
I saw a guy with the same problem ... he modified a comment cheap CRESCENT wrench and installed 2 posts (maybe bolts) in the jaws to make an expandable
sorry for lousy pic with no 3d view but you get the point I am certain
carbs usually leak from a bad inlet float operation
when rebuilding carbs you must do the blow test on the inlet nipple
right side up... air goes in the carb
held upside down no air should enter the carb.
dont get to hung up on the welch plugs just tap them in properly they...
have you tried shooting some fuel oil mix in the carb directly to see how the engine reacts...if it run whith no choke it confirms the engine is not pulling it's own fuel fuel out of the carbs .
if you have good sparks.... if the carbs are clean....., if the fuel is fresh the engine needs to suck that fuel out of the carbs thanks to the crankcase negative pressure ( aka vacum) during the piston up strokes.
when piston come down the pressure builds up and expels that fresh...
very funny :-) but not applicable in my case. The mere smell of oil, carb cleaner, smoke , gas , spray paint or diesel in my winter shop (basement) generates thunder . Even sweet smelling wd-40 is a no no :-(
ETECs solved it by not mixing oil and gas although the early ones like my 2005 did slip in some oil in the fuel line. That was stopped around 2008 .
ETEC in and out ports are CLOSED before the fuel is injected and results in a clean burn meeting EPA standards. None of the inbound fuel...
if your carbs are truly plugged the source is usually common... fuel related
bad fuel stale etc...
dirty fuel ( incl crumbling/defective fuel hose)
dried fuel in carb passages
watery fuel
dirty rusty tank and crud etc... incl fuel pick-up , fuel connectors
bad / inoperative venting...
It is my method but it is just " in case" the plug leaks. I only remove the top dime size one... never the small ones !
any gasket type sealant can be used to dab the rim of the cover plug
or simple nail polish which will quickly harden and seal.
if you prefer do not apply any...
IF the smoke is a new issue running the engine and you were using the same oil for a long time I suspect chasing synthetic oils to cure the problem ...will not resolve the underlying cause of the smoke and smoke is good :)
