Search results

ok, than it has to be inside the motor If you pull the heads you should be able to rotate the crank by hand. If unable to rotate by hand it's bearings

Pull the drive first The 305 and 350 use the same block, only the years can bring about holes missing as in maybe a ALT or raw water pump bracket bolt hole won't be there. Motor mounts stay the same

Might be a bad connection, and if it is than need to start cleaning contacts A bad connection could be anywhere from the main harness to the key switch and back to the motor

There is a oil pressure switch (item 10) that sends power to the pump once the motor starts. It's located port side at rear of the motor. The gauge sender has one wire the switch has 2 wires https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/42256336/28149107

New larger cables and removed the switch 3 new starters Pull the drive, that's the only thing left, and if it still cranks slow it has to be the motor

Motor is toast

Rinda is the place to get what you need, I have a Techmate and a bunch of connectors. Diacom is best but I handy and quick, Diacom needs a computer so a bit more bulky

Cheap Exterior grade CDX uses the same glue as BCX and ACX. The A and B references the top surface layer, and the second letter (C vs D) is the amount of voids on internal layers. Marine uses same glue but guarantees no voids, hence why it's so expensive. That said, most all the transoms I've...

Welcome Don't see it as a drive issue Is this a new to you boat? I'll assume you don't have a scanner, so I would start with the basics Do a compression test (TB at WOT and crank over at least 4 times, more is better) Check fuel pressure at the rail (should be 50 to 60psi)

Mike might know better, but any BCX (note the X) plywood uses exterior glue. Many including myself have used BCX over marine plywood. The extra expense of marine ply is not worth it

No issue with it dropping some over time, just trying to rule out that we're not loosing power to the pump after it starts

Does the fuel pressure stay close to 40 when motor is started and when it's stalling?

In post 6 link Look at item 6 the IAC muffler and item 8 Pull the muffler out (it's foam) and see if it needs cleaned. Also check the hose and fitting that it's clean

woopsie

My 1994 Formula started with an isolator and the Alternator output wire was disconnected from at the starter and the ALT. Formula ran a new wire to the isolator and from it they ran to each Bat. This way the sense wire remained connected to the start Bat via the regular harness Do agree ACR is best

Welcome It's got some nice lines, and most likely the stringers are also rotted

Might have got a spec of crud that stuck briefly in the needle seat VST The reg most likely does not come apart, most don't. Check the fuel pressure to see if meets spec. Really need a scanner to see if there are any codes

Right now I would take the VST apart, clean and adjust. With the VST overflow means the float is not shutting off or restricting the fuel coming in What is your serial number?

The old part number was 862998 and Sierra makes one...

Many have used the Ford IAC and they have worked fine, I've just don't have first hand knowledge