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Post pictures of the threads on the crankshaft !----Remove coils and grind the hub so it comes off.

The brown / copper decals were for 84 / 85 models.

Post a picture of the threads on the crankshaft.----Starting to look expensive and time consuming.

Hurry to a shop and have them remove the flywheel.----Money well spent !

Heat , freezing and potions are not needed.----A proper puller and a hefty hammer to give the pusher bolt a bump.

Linkage fallen off and timer base not rotating?

If the nut was tightened too much , you end up with the flywheel taper stretched well over the crank taper.----Factory puller and a bump with a hefty hammer pops them off.-----Release agents do not help here.

Correct----Pump and reservoir are inside the boat.----And 2 external rams beside the midsection.-----Lots of used ones available.

There is nothing " scientific " about changing from 24:1 and going to 50:1 in my opinion.-----If you are losing sales because the competition is at 50:1 the board room made the change.

Use 24:1 in that fine motor.

Dealer friend said---" I love the new 4 strokes "---Folks make regular appointments for service.-----Don't need a super mechanic to change oil / filters / plugs.-----All good $$$ that 2 strokes never brought to the shop.

That belt on the inline models was the same from about 1954 to 1980.----Should not be hard to find one.

Does the lower tilt pin only come out in one direction ?

You can get a kit or maybe just a diaphragm.----Do you install a new water pump impeller every 5 years.----Both easy jobs and recommended.

You pay for a spot with a deposit.-----Never see your money again !

Lots of good used power trim units are available.

Your location ?

Run carburetors dry before letting boat sit for a week or more.-----If there is a separate oil injection unit ( autoblend ) throw it in the garbage.

Milling machine and boring bar is the way to do them.-----Not that hard.

Hard to find because there is very little call for this kind of work.