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Yeah, plus being able to see is a high priority!

I use them for lawn trimmers, blowers, mowers and other things but for JohnnyRude outboards, there not even close for me. Sierra is acceptable too.

Amazon stuff does not work...OEM or Sierra but OEM parts are readily available for that motor. Use non-ethanol fuel and keep it clean. Pull the carb, new OEM parts...deep clean. Idle circuit is suspect here.

I run a lot of those, 100 they will run decently, 90, not so much. Might come up and like you said those compression testers all come out different. I rely mostly on one I got in the 80's but it reads the lowest of three that I have. 120 or better is where you want to be. Best guess, power...

For me, even if they run with those values...they have no power. I will say, lots claim though.

Somewhat the same thing.

Wow sounds to me like you're randomly losing a cylinder and possibly other problems. I would not keep running it and I would do a compression check right away. If you're constantly leaning out one cylinder you're going to smoke it.

I would get a JohnnyRude 70 for that boat. I would search far and wide.

Boats are best, outboard wise, to be slightly over powered. They don't have to work as hard. Old school 2 strokes are based on the amount of cylinders fuel usage wise. If your an old "granny" you might get that consumption...everyone else, nope.

It's got a "roll over" switch. If your upside down, your safe! Definitely an issue. Boat fires are a major bummer.

Compression numbers?

Fuel pump rupture will allow fuel to spill into the crankcase causing an undetermined amount of total 2 stroke mayhem and you might even need a outboard whisperer. Lol....take it apart, it easy. Remember, if you have spark...and good spark, compression...good compression then it has to be fuel...

Did you replace the impeller? A motor that's sits that long is bound to have cracked rubber. Swap coils, ohm everything out and if it test ok, replace power pack. Doesn't sound like it has the "Good" spark. Do a spark GAP test. 3/8 with a bluish crack. Gap testers are $15 at any auto parts store.

The ones you put on still need to be shrunk on both ends ...you missed a step. I have no problem with the bullet connectors. After melting those, if still wrap them in something.

Confirms what the original milky flavor was.

Just not water proof anymore.

Best to do what Racer says especially with the older ones. Much more likely water gets in than oil getting out the top. What is your gas to oil ratio on that old girl?

Old school rubber connectors have never been a problem for me unless someone left them apart and corrosion occured. Glad you found the issue and fixed it. Have fun!

Everything above sounds sketchy and I don't quite understand you. But, that being said, what particular parts weren't OEM? And we're they Sierra at least? Imported parts from the far east will give you problems. Evinrude gaskets last 70 years....Amazon? There done when you tighten the screw...

Did we use all OEM parts?