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Lower Unit (LW) will need to stay in the water at all times. (For over revving and coolant water/lubrication) If your using the existing transom and not on a plane the water should be quite high so I wouldn't think it would be a problem. And like Racer say's, aftermarket adjustable brackets are...

Do another compression check, if still good, buy an inexpensive IR gun and see how hot it's running.

Brandons garage shows you how to install one and lists the part number (YouTube)... Any parts motor will have one... Cdi electronics probably makes and sells one. I have many...dime a dozen really. Pretty sure the only thing you don't have is an overheat sensor so you won't be using that wire.

That's the older one. Either buy a vintage harness or they sell a replacement harness that converts it to the red plug. More wires, more options and not hard. Or I make my own with aftermarket connectors. Crosbys example doesn't work for your motor but it's what it could be. You can look up...

No key is needed. Unplug the motor and jump the starter solenoid. Spark gap test of 3/8 or better while checking compression numbers. Easy to do and gives you a wealth of info. Post the results.

Does it have the big black plug on the motor or red?

and spark plugs clean up easy! 🤓

Racer is correct, it's hard on the lower end if you don't rotate the prop while shifting it not running. Other things can happen too though.

Do it with it running in a BIG barrel.

Cut it and use a good marine but splice or pull the pin. Rubbing alcohol and a MacGyver tool works great. You need to know. I've seen and experienced what Nordin is talking about. Tested fine but wasn't. Micro voltage doesn't count sometimes.

Excellent and thanks for posting what you did for the other folk who run into this issue. Might save someone lots of time.

Probably not the fuel filter, it's the overflow from a flooding situation but pictures will prove. Get an OEM service manual.... Intake was full of dirt? Explain more please.

You should adjust the idle at the timer screw located outside ....wait, is this a tiller?

I was in my 20's and now I'm 62...I'm lucky when I can find my socks! Sorry.

Just blow some water through all those rubber hoses, try to reverse flush and put it all back together and test. 152° is not reached overheat yet but was probably going to. Has any of the paint yellowed on the head or around the block area? That might indicate that it had been overheated that...

Rubber motor mounts....I disagree with a power loss but the motor not shaking so bad is better which usually happens at idle speeds. As you know those upper internal bolts that snap from abuse could definitely be catastrophic. I usually just go with it on 50 year old motors.

Yes but did you put the sheet ice racing blade on it yet? Lol.... Thanks for the report. New style batteries have come along way.

A partially plugged thermostat could be problematic yes, open or not. Doesn't affect the tell tale so yes there is a high percent the problem is still lurking. Always frustrating.

Do you mean it stayed in the cup? You would easily see missing pieces. Well for now let's hope you've found your "smoking gun"!

How did the old impeller look when you replaced it? Any missing pieces? Small orifice's everywhere. Could be the stats but not likely. Racer is correct most likely on diverters and or examination. Slighten tighten first and then try loosing. I have torque spec fingers knowing when they will...