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Salt water motor, yes or no? If not, mud dobbers area or other nesting bugs? Have you been praying to the outboards gods? Many things to soak it in before removing the head.

Anything oily works, tranny fluid has cleaners but not really necessary. Just free up the rings and coat the walls. The best is when you do it before you ever turn it if you don't know it's history. Head; flat piece of something, glass is used by some. I use 120 grit sandpaper looking straight...

Yes....it can but..... Running it more and testing it warm will help bring the numbers up but your numbers are acceptable to me. Learn how to resurface the head if you haven't already and send pics of this motor (whole and under the cowling) to see if you need other info to keep this wonderful...

Yes, their mating so make sure to give them privacy....new little outboards will come soon!

I've done them before, crosby exactly right...wood dowel and hammer. Did it to a 250 HP ones years ago and it's still running today. Rings get stuck. Best to pickle the crapola out of it....as for the other stuff, heat and your favorite penetrant. All fun but it won't be the best motor on the...

So just to be clear, kill switch will not shut the engine off or it won't allow it to start?

A few drips of rubbing alcohol on the rubber and it will slide back like magic. Then unclip the mating metals.

Did the motor rotate 360 degrees or more by turning the flywheel? If the gearcase is off the midsection then there isn't anything that should restricts it's movements. If you can't get the gear case off...that's a different scenario.

I use inexpensive tranny fluid or whatever else is laying around. Rarely do those come back. Compression testers are all over the board. I only trust the one I got in 1979.

Yes, my 2009 E-tec is the same. They made that feature so if you got flung, and the cord is strapped to you in the water, your mate could start the boat and come get you. Not sure I'm a fan but it was perplexing when I first discovered that. Now whether the op has that might be in question...

Yes, and rumer has it 3 nine volt battery's in series makes it work! 😋

Show us a picture of your control box or where the human overboard switch is...

Without going back through the posts, and assuming this is a remote motor, have you removed the control box plug from the motor and then try testing the starting stuff back at the motor. Usually I jump the solenoid and at that point the kill circuit will somewhat be removed from the system. At...

A little confused about your terminology, but the kill system can test good (continuity wise) but still fail under full load. Everything hooked up completely right that is. Something is robbing power.

I was just looking through the eyes of an inexperienced or super busy op....compared to many starters it's not AS easy. Simple tool is easy to make.

Agreed, starter is pretty easy to test and cleanup. Installing the brushes is the hardest part but doable. While spinning and under load, that starter should read 10.5 volts or so. I assume you have bench tested the starter on the outboard....(By passed some electrical components) ?

You can just buy the handle trim assembly online or used. There's plenty out there or go to one on the dash. I've always gone with the throttle one though, safer and more effective.

This should help

Parts 5, 6 and 7 will give you "the glory" but like everyone says....you need nothing. Follow the yellow brick road and get what the scarecrow needed. 🤓

I'd say it's above like it's supposed to be. Step back and take another picture.