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Only way to determine if the motor was rebuilt is to pull it apart and inspect it Measure the bore diameter, the crank journals, etc Post your casting numbers. The 454 mag is a rectangular port motor where most of the 454s were oval port

Her you go...

Did you Google the specs? Or use the Col Reg formula that the USCG uses? A quick Google search will tell you that your 200hp is fine

both lowers would be a 30 minute job (total) for most welders.

I get most of my rotating electrics rebuilt vs replacing. I used to drive past a starter/alternator shop every day prior to changing jobs. still use them, just a little less convenient. they give you a test report.

Ted, did you pull the fuse for the trim tab pump? would hate for you to bump the switch and spray ATF into the fresh bilge

back in 1987, every fluid on your boat would most likely be SAE 30. it will be in the steering system, the trim tabs, the motors, and the drives.

our OMC cobra guru posted a few time. here is a search. he posted the procedure many times. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=iboats+lou-c+omc+cobra+shift+cable

Most likely the backing plate was wood and it rotted I wouldn't use a riv-nut to hold anything other than upholstery to fiberglass

Stringers get towed up

Problems filling are either an obstruction in the fill line, or a blockage in the vent line

Some light reading https://forums.iboats.com/threads/perspective-of-fiberglass-boat-design-life.683703/

Non detergent SAE 30

You are correct Riva and Hinkley boats are towards the top with respect to quality and materials Regulator, Scout, MTI, Cigarette, Wellcraft, Viking, A2, Cruisers, in the upper middle category Carver, Marquis, Chris Craft, Boston Whaler, Grady White in the lower middle category Then there...

Doesn't matter what to condition was 20+ years ago. What the condition is today is what matters Rinker was similar to Bayliner, SeaRay or other entry level boats before being closed in 2020

The system is simple. The relays are used as a reversing contactor . Check the relay sockets for power. The motor A/B wires will be connected to the 30 pin on the relay. One relay will be wired with pin 87 to power and 87a to ground. The other will be wired pin 87 to ground and 87a to power

Which is why I suggested you have the admiral do it a few months back as she did your bathrooms.... You pay for the plane ticket and shipping my toolbox of DAs and sanding boards and we can knock it out in a few hours. Ain't nobody got time for sanding blocks

Helps to cut out the middle. Attwood buys that light along with sea-dog, perko, etc., and its stainless. the OP's light is just an aluminum tube transom light from Perko plenty out there up to 61" that should plug into his socket. here is a 54" with a 3-pin base.

Pitot tubes plug all the time Worst case, that $5 tube ruptured and you spend $5 for a 25' section

A is your gauge sender. It only controls the gauge B is the wire off the oil switch C is the oil fitting for the oil switch The switch between Band C is a binary mechanical pressure switch Your measurements are meaningless You should be looking for a bad connection, most likely the block...