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If you look closely at the model number guide in post #8 it CLEARLY says 1999 and newer. You may be smarter then everybody else here about Outboards. But please do not tell me I can't read.

The model number guide you posted is for 1999 and newer.

Your model number indicates 20 inch long shaft.

Use something like this or make your own. Search spark gap tester.

My 4 hp motors are the same. When they changed for CDI ignition they changed the throttle cam shape. And carbs and the cam followers also changed over time.

I didn't see the picture the first time but now I can see the two tone paint.

Maybe vermitherm = thermostat ?

Back pressure on the exhaust is probably keeping it from starting in the water. Check to see if running on all cylinders.

If the tank is in good condition. In my opinion changing that metal tank for a plastic tank is not an upgrade.

Its not three prongs The third pin is there so you can't plug the hose on backwards.

I have used vise grips locked on to the screw driver to remove the screws that are too tight. But at home I use the hand impact driver.

Yes sorry your right. I didn't notice the shifter yoke. I thought it was pinned to the shift lever.

The shift rod on your motor isn't threaded into the gearcase. What problem do you have?

Also many companies change the style of tools and batteries often. I have a pile of saws , drills, sanders etc. without batteries.

I think the driveshafts have different diameters.

The inspection plate looks like this. Rotating the flywheel clockwise will allow you to see the coils ect.

Depends on your ability. Do what racerone posted in post #3.

If ignition coils are original then they will be cracked and need replacing..

The pump is not self priming. Therefore it needs to be submerged on startup.