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Painted yesterday. Looks pretty splotchy in person.

Grind all of that leftover later of wood off. If you want to do any patch work, I would do it from the inside. It will be stronger and avoid bodywork and paint.

Any exposed wood needs to be sealed. Any penetrations such as bolt holes also need sealed. If I understand correctly, you're saying that one of the outdrive bolt holes is a bit oval now? If it's minor, I wouldn't worry about it, just reinstall the outdrive as normal. If it's a bit big, I would...

That's just custom paint 👍

Not bad, gold is a difficult color to spray, but why does the white stripe look wobbly? Personally, I think some blue would go well with the color scheme, maybe a bit darker but still doesn't look bad.

No, I mean what kind? I haven't seen those before. The jaws look like a big oval with a V notch.

The transom isn't glued in, should be lots of bolts. The usual method is to take off the motor, then the cap on the splashwell and pull the transom up and out. I don't see that sliding out forward with the brace in the middle. What are those funky vice grips?

Sure, no problem. I would leave that open so water can drain along the keel. Make sure to cut drain holes along the keel in the bulkheads (the pieces running sideways between stringers).

Can't be mad about that, that's going to be a really hard color to match with paint, no way with gel.

The truck left this morning. The cab is very nice inside. Should've got a picture of the truck outside, but I didn't. Then I spent about half the day cleaning some stuff up, waiting on my next job to show up. A regal that someone else had tried to do a spot in but couldn't get the color.

3/4 would be fine for stringers, it just gives you a narrow area to hit with the screws. Hard enough to hit a 2x that's really only 1 1/2". The foam you have is someone saying "screw it, good enough". Usually, the floor goes in, then a few holes are cut along each cavity and expansion foam...

I would glass the whole stringer and floor back in. You have to fill all those cavities with floatation foam once the floor is back in, so the stringers will be covered all the way up the sides. The floor is also structural, and should be glassed all around the hull like it was. I also think...

Sorry I haven't chipped in yet. The original thread was created before my time here, so I didn't get a notification until it was moved. Now, to give my opinion on some of your questions in no particular order. You can stand on the inside of the hull, shouldn't be a problem unless the glass is...

Boat manufacturers don't keep or disperse information like car manufacturers. There are little to no manuals, schematics, paint codes, or parts lists. For that paint, your best bet would be to take it to an auto body supplier and ask them to use a color matching camera. It will most likely need...

Someone did this just to hide the rot and trade in.

Are you sure those squares aren't rotten or soft? Those washers are a pretty good indicator because the wood would have to be soft to pull them in like that.

Maybe leave them out in the sun on a hot day?

Sealer. Painted. Reducing the photo size did some wonky things to the walls.

It could also be studs in T nuts in the back of the cushion. I very much agree. Cutting a 3 inch access hole behind the cushion won't do anything. Ouch, luckily I've never been claustrophobic.

Sometimes being a short guy helps, og course then I have a hard time reaching stuff once I get squirrled into a tight spot. Haven't gotten stuck yet though!