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Agreed if a crack drill hole at each end weld from outside in. Nit sure if that is a crack or gouge from when it was rolled due to debris

I would recheck the alignment several times and rotate the coupler 90 deg 4 times to check alignment through the arc of coupler rotation. U joints can be tough to see wear with out taking the caps off. The ujoints on my Alpha gen 2 felt fine but when I resealed my drive I replaced them 1-2...

I cannot confirm from here with 100% confidence but i think so. Best way is to research your casting number to a 4.3 engine family generation. On a similar not adjustable valtrain (torque nut to set) I used poly locks to convert to adjustable due to milling the heads. This corrected a geometry...

Prob not wear just manufacturing tolerances. When you set preload on lifters normal you are compressing the lifter i Think .030-.050” so no issues as AD said.

did the old coil fail and ohm test of primary and secondary side? Spark gap test of out put? just wondering how you landed on the coil or just by how hot it was getting.

As long as the valve train geometry is the same and thus uses the same pushrod length it’s no issue.

would think as long as the chamber size is the same should work. Did the other head check out ok? would assume this is from an over heat block deck is likely not flat anymore. Edit missed the prvious post re second head is ok but still need to check mating surface on block

That would be my thought that they are casting ridges, but you are chasing an issue , so if it were my show I would be using some tests. Either go back in with rebuilt heads or have they magged or pressure tested. Any time on engine work like this where I took a short cut it later bit me in the a$$

you have to have it magnafluxed or pressure tested to know. In the grand scheme of things neither are expensive. Its done this far would be foolish not to confirm

at idle the TB 5 will advance the ignition and monitor the rpm increase and keep advancing until rpms stop increasing, called mean best timing. So you will see it hunt at idle when not in base mode. Shouldn't move much when in base mode. Were you able to see the total advance by reving it up to...

any way it got down the carb during storage? would eventually leak by the rings. Also possible if it wasnt getting hot due to defective thermostat and or idling at the dock can get condensation in it

possible you have a crack in exhaust seat or rot through exhaust ports. You may not see that unless valves are removed from heads. I would have them pressure tested and or magnafluxed and valve job at a machine shop. They are off and you are looking for issues but haven’t found it yet… If you...

Chevy used the Vortec name on 4.3 s before coming out with the vortec head deisgn on both 4.3 and 5.0/5.7 engines in 1996. So common to see Vortec on valve covers I think in 94-95 with the older style 12 bolt intake. later in 90 s evry engine Chevy made it trucks was called Vortec. The head...

if water is getting in the combustion chambers they will be steam cleaned while running plug will be washed clean as well.

this . For same reason I put rollers on my jetski trailer as we have a shallow ramp on our property and use a tractor to launch and retrieve the ski annually. USed to have to lift the ski on the trailer. As other have said either style will work well when properly set up, cant count how many...

Cause it made someone feel good at some point, pretty sure it is in the manual. They way the rotor went on with out it , its not coming off.

I didn't have an issue with my rotor , preventatively changed it as the cap had green crusties, had to chisel the rotor off. I dont think I was a one off as they put loctite on them. bottom line likely to change the sensor you will waste a rotor

I would swap it out given the comments. Get a cap and rotor as they have to come off and often the rotor doesnt want to come off in one piece

Is your ignition advancing properly? 3 different carbs and same issue I would look elsewhere. Vacuum leak is also good to rule out spray starting fluid at intake to head seam. Have you verified fuel pressure. Assume fuel is fresh and not contaminated ?

Fore you pull the intake do the pressure test with the spark plugs out you may have a bad head gasket That is leaking into a combustion chamber thru and open intake valve and out the intake . I would at least pull the exhaust elbows and look in the manifolds for evidence de of leakage