FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
In Other News . . .
You will notice a few enchancements to the forums to make your experience better. These include: Email Notifications, Thread Previews, Thread Starter Notation, and Emoji Options on the 'Like' icon. . .
Additionally, the merchant portions of the website have been updated and are now operational. . . . Check out iBoats for all your boating gear.
Just a thought…
go to YouTube and watch a video on replacing the T-Stat to make sure you are doing it correctly. It’s easy to put it in backwards. Don’t ask me how I know.
But, as I mentioned earlier, see what happens if you run the engine without the T-Stat.
Based on info given, most likely it is your risers/manifolds. Not an expert on this, but just for the heck of it, remove the T-stat, run the boat and see what happens
What parts are you looking to get? Anything electrical must be a marine version. Pretty sure same goes for the carb. Marine engines also use a different cam.
I recently sold my 2002, 215 SSI and that is where mine was located, behind a small oval chrome grill, maybe 3x5”. Agree, not a very loud horn.
Are you sure you even have one? Just because you have a horn switch, doesn’t mean you have one.
That tells you the shear pin has been “sheared”, which is their purpose. You hit something in the water and the shear pin breaks before the prop is damaged.
I buy 2 different antifreezes, both are pink.
West Marine sells one for $6.99 that is made for both water and engines. It is PG antifreeze that is alcohol free with added rust inhibitors.
That is what I use in my engines and air conditioning system.
For the heads and water system, I buy the RV...
Ok, just for future reference, that engine is referred to as RWC, raw water cooled. An engine with closed cooling (anti freeze running through the block) is FWC, fresh water cooled.
OK, the button at the bottom of the shift lever…when you push it in, it basically disengages the transmission linkage and allows you to rev the motor while still in neutral. That is its sole purpose. Are you sure you are pushing that button hard enough?
Ok, please clear this up…you say it is a fresh water engine. Do you mean the boat is only used in fresh water or it is a fresh water cooled engine, meaning it has a closed cooling system with anti freeze running through the block.
Yes, it is a budget motor, which often is not a good thing. Also, it was usually paired up to Bayliners and back in that time period, the Bayliners were really bad. The combination of the two…not good and developed a sorry reputation
Good to hear. Again, this is a great forum, but mostly power boaters, with some sailors sprinkled in. Sailnet is a BIG forum of just sailors and fortunately, some with your same boat.
Looks like you have done a lot of good work. Congrats.
Suggestion…this is a pretty good forum, but not so much for sailboats. Why not spend some time on a sailboat specific forum like sailnet.com.
For every sailor here, there’s probably a 100 over there.
Never heard of any states allowing no numbers, but I guess it’s possible.
Assuming you need them, you have 2 choices…go to your local hardware and buy numbers/letters and slap them on yourself. Or, go to your local sign maker and have a one piece number made up. Only a few dollars more, but it...
A couple things…first of all, a 268 is a lot of boat for a 5.7. Have you put more stuff on the boat? How much water and gas are in the tanks? Any chance you have a fair amount of water sloshing around the bilge? All of this can add a lot of weigh to the boat, slowing down performance.
BIG...
Been using Quicken for 30 years. I wasn’t happy when they went the subscription route, but I do download bank and stock info pretty much daily, so I’ve learned to accept it.