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I guess the OP figured it out

If you tell us where you are located, someone might be able to give you a suggestion for a prop shop. Best to take both in for evaluation/servicing. I took mine in a couple years ago for the first time since I’ve been boating…looked brand new when I picked them up.

Not enough information to go on. What’s wrong with the prop and can it be fixed? Best bet, take it to a good prop shop for evaluation/advice

If we knew exactly where you are located, you would get better answers

Unless there is something special about that Lawson, I’m guessing the max rated HP for that boat would probably be in the 130-140 range. Running that boat wide open with 225 HP would be dangerous. Since you are new to boating, you would have a hard time getting insurance. Have you, or are...

A couple things…the terminology for the Bayliner engine is inboard/outboard. Are you sure about that 225 on the Lawson? That’s massive power for an 18 footer. I’m guessing it’s actually 125. Between the two, the Lawson would definitely be the better buy. It’s newer and better built.

Agree with Scott…especially the part about tri hulls…they will beat you do death. I speak from experience

Ok, what engine is on it and does it work? What condition is the boat in? Are the decks soft and need replacing? Seating? Does it need to be replaced? What other issues jump out at you? As far as finding information on this particular boat, I wouldn’t bother trying. Most boats are pretty...

Glad you found it. Just curios…how close is that breaker to your shore power connection?

I was told that ABYC standards were changed in the mid 90’s to include a breaker within close proximity to the shore power connection. Mine is covered with a stainless steel cap identical to the cap that covers the shore power connector. I never looked at mine as I just assumed it covered a...

I found out the hard way there is a breaker within a foot or so of your boat side connection. Never knew it existed until I lost power one day and a buddy told me to check it.

Need more info. Your options are: getting a fuel polishing guy to clean the fuel or pump it out completely. This depends on how old the fuel is. If old, pump it out and he can assess how dirty the tank is and best way to clean it. Another option, if the tank itself Is really dirty and can...

I’ve always used the muffs to run antifreeze into the block, but I also remove the T-stat first, now I don’t have to worry….is it open or closed?

Bill Weyant of East Coast Marine up in Havre de Grace. Really takes his time to explain all systems to make sure the buyer understands how everything works. I used him on my Carver 356 over on Kent Island. My brother used him previously and referred him to me. I might add, he wants you...

My .02 worth, a 260 really needs a big block. A 5.7 is just adequate. If you do pursue it, sea trail with full tanks and 4 people. As far as a surveyor goes, tell us where you are and maybe we can make a couple suggestions.

I’m not the person to ask, but I know just enough to say, make sure you do this conversion right. Starter and alternator (as well as anything electrical) must be electrically sealed for marine use, otherwise, the possibility exists for a big boom. Seems I have read that the cam may need to be...

I’m no expert, but I’m guessing you really need to get it on the water to properly break it in. Even if it is an hour or two away…make the effort.

Ok, why is the OP running his engine 30 minutes or more? If he’s just flushing, sounds like major overkill to me.

Ok, sorry. You are right. I am an idiot and will use this as a teaching or rather, a learning moment. Do my best to not let it happen again

Well, the OP is a newbie to all of this. Just trying to help him learn the differences in marine engine cooling.