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I am not sure. The only way I can think of is to put the seal on the top end of the water tube. Now wrap some electrical tape around the water tube to hold the seal in place at the end of the tube. Tilt the motor all the way up, lube the seal with some oil and shine a flashlight up the...

That steering cable may be beyond saving. I presume it is a rotary system with the cable pulled out of the helm?

Gee, The OEM replacement for my Merc V6 was N/A for steel and $200+ for the SS replacement. Just so you know, the tilt tube on my Merc V6 has two different size nuts on it. The open end is larger than the cable side. The nuts may be unique to Mercury, so I would suggest you save yours, or get...

If you boat in salt water, the gauges can get corroded. They are usually made of a thin brass tube that moves when pressurized. The tube has a set of teeth that move a brass gear that moves the needle. Any of the movable parts can hang up, or get hard to move, affecting accuracy. I happen to...

Yes, cracks in the rubber give it away.

Do you remember when the installers used quick set epoxy to install masonry sheets in the ceiling of the "Big Dig" tunnel in Boston. The sheets with the slow set epoxy stayed in place, but the ones installed with the quick set epoxy fell onto moving cars one day causing lots of injuries. Of...

You might source a new tilt tube, just to have another option. I have no idea if they are available for your motor.

Gee, I just buy Ugly Stiks. I haven't broken one of those yet.

"Permatex Gasket Dressing and Sealant" is immune to fuel. You could put it on the threads or use a rubber washer on the screw, or both.

The gearcase should be pressurized to 10 PSI or so. Another case of AI being wrong. The driveshaft seal in the waterpump base often fails. It is easiest just to buy a new waterpump base, with the seal already installed. Clean the driveshaft with fine sandpaper and lube it with oil before...

A picture would help. Do you ever drain the carb bowls? If so, why? Could you drive a SS self tapping screw into the remains of the drain to seal it?

Corroded steering rods usually only occur if they are not cleaned and lubed each season. So turn the wheel so they stick out all the way (or disconnect and pull them out), wipe them off until clean. Solvent is usually not necessary. Now grease 'em up good. The best stuff was Mercury's...

Newer Mercs have a silver plug on the block, with the serial number. Failing that, you could try to look up the part number of the block.

Those are some pretty good bangs on the side of the gearcase. You might put a straight edge on 'em and see if there are dents in the casing.

I read the description of the product on Amazon. I was surprised that it was listed, as I expected a stain to protect from greying.

There is a product that screws onto the open end of the steering rod, and seals it with an oring. Search "Steering tube cable grease nut"...

According to the internet, that stuff is water based. Says it penetrates but allows the wood to weather to a grey color. That seems to be an oxymoron. My deck will weather to a grey color, if I leave it alone.

You might source the rubber mounts for your motor. When I needed them for my Merc, only the Sierra brand was stocked, and very few of them were avail. The bolts can be had at a good hardware store.

The switchboxes are potted with epoxy. It is very difficult to get to the innards. You might look for a new engine harness. Sierra may make them.

Usually if you can rock the shift rod front to back with a pipe or monkey wrench, with penetrating oil and some rags for cleaning the dirt off, they will loosen up. Hammering on the end will usually mushroom the end of the rod and make removal near impossible.