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More realistically, the 17 was prop that was shipped with the Engine. It was often a good choice for boats in the 15-16ft range. Even the Engine Brochures would have in fine Print that other props may be more suitable and that the Dealer could change it out while rigging. The 90hp put out its...

The 140 carbs were 1 5/16" except for 1977 -79 when they were 1 3/8" the post 84 and later 115s and 110 also used the 1 5/16" carbs Early 115s, 85, 88, and 90s used a 1 3/16" inch carb

I suspect that the Gearcase is low on Oil and the Upper Gears/Bearings were starved. Most VPs have a Hexagonal Bolt/Screw a the top of the Outdrive housing. It will also be a Dipstick. Remove it and see if there is any Oil on it

It will be a classic case of the Owner claiming "Oil is Oil". In their Ignorant mind(s), there is no difference between a Top Tier TCW-3 and a TCW-3 that barely meets the Spec.

The engineer that came up with it, or the manager who approved it, likely climbed the Management ranks, and canceling the design would be admitting it was a Mistake, and we all KNOW, that Management NEVER makes Mistakes

The jets you mentioned are used in the 84 140hp.

Hanging over the transom above a Flywheel spinning over 4500rpm, is not my idea of a good time, especially if the Water, isn't like Glass

Okay, now that you have adjusted the Linkages, it is time to get the Official Service Manual for your Engine, and do a Link and Sync to get it all back to where it should be.

That would be the easiest and safest way to do it.

He is in Saskatchewan.

No Pressure Treated Lumber for the Bunks, as the Chemicals used to treat the Wood, will react with the Pontoons, which are likely Aluminium

Best wishes on the trip, and happy boating

Almost all of, if not all of, the Timing Advance happens before the Carb begins to open. With the Control Cables unhooked, does the linkage move enough to fully open the Carb?

Every Lake in my Province has Leeches, in almost 70 yrs, I have never had one stick to me. Of course I stay away from Weeds and Reeds when in the Water, as those Blood Suckers tend to hang around there waiting for a Fish. In 87, I went swimming in one Lake. got back in the Boat, and had a bunch...

The last 4 weeks we have had more than 8 inches of Rain. Last night, an Inch and a Half, with more today and tomorrow. I would prefer it to be as Dry as a Popcorn Fart, and the temps below 20c

Swap the Coils, to see if the Problem moves with the Coil Good Spark? Can it jump a 3/8" Gap?

Did you unhook any Wiring Harnesses/Connectors while you were accessing the Thermostats? Before I take anything apart, I always check the Floor/Counter for anything already there.

I take it Lakes in Florida are not Safe to Swim in, or Waterski on, unless you want to be part of the Food Chain

I would suggest you contact Comp Cams, they would be the Best Source. Due to changes in Valve Train Geometry, you may need to use Roller Rocker Arms, and possibly slightly different length Pushrods

Water, as we all know boils at 212F. So with a +2 to +6 degree Variance, there would be No Way the switch will ever close when in boiling Water. The Boiling Point of Water also Lowers, the higher above Sea Level you are. I suggest you try a Water - Ethylene Glycol mix to get the Boiling Point a...