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Thank you guys for reply. My only I/O experience so far is with a newer VP that was half closed system, so way safer in regards of potential freeze damage. This one is a bit different animal. Seems there are no block nor manifold drains at all but just one blue plug on the t-stat housing and...

I have a 2005 raw water cooled 350MAG in my boat and I was wondering which of the two methods is correct (both found from youtube) 1. Drain all the water from block and manifolds/risers, leave the blue plugs off, then disconnect the big tube from the circulation pump and t-stat housing, flip it...

The harbour cover snaps bases are attahed with self tapping screws. Couple of them are ripped of from the hull. The remaining hole is unfortunately so big that any screw still going through the base won't be big enough to catch any material. And I cant access them from behind...so what are my...

Oh no. Then I should start chasing why trim up doesn't work but trailer up works? One thing I'm thinking is when my trim sender has "rotated" a bit so it tricks the system to think it's already high enough and only trailer-up could be engaged? But if that's not the case then I'm stuck with no...

Aha, thank you. My previous was VP and that cut the pump when down position was reached. So B3 I understand doesn't cut the power when low end position is reached. So it must have some relieve valve so it doesnt hurt the pump when you still press the button? But this "another button for trailer"...

Exactly my case. Just started the other day. Will have to try the same adjustment. What I'm also wondering, does 2005 B3 have end-switches or trim limits built into them? Meaning it will cut off the pump when the outdrive has reached it's lower position? The boat is new to me and the pump keeps...

I did solve the problem. The voltage should be anywhere between 4 and 5 volts, so you are good with that. The solution was new sender. And not only new but OEM new. First ofcourse wanted to save few bucks and bought aftermarket for 160 I think. All ohms and everything correct but no result. Then...

Did your Rinker came with autopilot or rudder indicator? Thats where my mind goes but not sure.

Had the same on my DPS-A. Disconnect the trim sender wire harness at the transom, see if that gets your trim to go down. If so your sender is bad. Could be also trim down relay (listen if it clicks when you press the button)

Thats's not gxi - there's no fuel rail and injectors on top of the engine. As to the problem - connect a DMM to the socket leads and squeeze and wigggle and "massage" the harness to see if you get a signal on your dmm screen at any point.

Something wrong with the pipework. There should be coolant running through the block, closed loop between exchanger and block. Depending on t-stat it regulates the amount that stays in the block or flows through exchanger. The raw water side runs like following - impeller sucks it in and pumps...

Thats only for installation. I've used a small bottle coming from bedroom 😁

One possibility is that it sucks air somewhere...I would suspect the "garden hose" or flush connector. For a temporary testing, plug it wit something other than the original plug. Other option is that I've heard before, some engines are incapable of selfpriming, meaning theres airbubble in the...

Corrosion is an issue vith Volvo drives. I know folks who have in addition to standard anodes also put small anodes in the trim cylinder ends, much like on Mercs with the difference being that its not fastened onto cylinder ends but on the ram ends, like clamped around the shafts. And tgen you...

Was a hell of a day yesterday with all the experimenting. Between the tank and fuel cell there is water separator, so to rule out upstream I disconnected from water separator and put the external tank upside down up in the air so to minimize effort needed for sucking - still whining. Then, to...

I should add that just recently I disassembled the whole fuel cell because of that whining noise, no loose paint there but still removed the paint from inside. While it was apart I also tested both pumps separately with 12 volts and they were quiet like a whisper. Assembled everything back...

You need three O-rings. One for dipstick, one for overfill and one for drai. Part numbers should be 3855081 and 3852045. Thats what I have on the packages.

My Volvo Penta fuel pump is doing a lot of whine. It's a 2008 4.3 gxi. The pumps are running cool, about the same temperature as everything else in the engine bay. I have checked the screens, replaced the E-clip instead of screen to the fuel pressure regulator, cooling passages are clean, engine...

I have been chasing the causes of not so smooth idle on my VP 4.3gxi. Found out that even though all 6 plugs are the same Acdelco 41-993 then somehow on the port side all center electrodes look different then those on the stb side. Made also a picture of it, and only when at home looking at the...

I was writing about separate hp and lp pumps and not the whole fuel cell.