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If the engine has good compression and doesn't make abnormal noises it is definitely worth finding out where the problem is now, before you winterize it. It could be: exhaust system, elbows, manifolds, gasket between the 2 (a '96 still has the wet exhaust system), if in salt water exhaust...

I was wondering about that too! I don't have the Ford 5.8 in my OMC shop manual (they weren't using it yet) but I do have the diagrams for the Ford 2.3 and the Ford 429. Gonna look at it now. OK what I see there is exactly like the pic above with one difference: 1) top Purple/black ignition wire...

ARCO IIRC has a tech line they can be helpful with questions. They helped me solve an overcharging issue on my OMC Cobra and also gave advice for how to properly hook up an electric auto choke for a boat that didn’t have one from the factory.

You must be about the same age as my son. It was his first day of kindergarten.

Was working in one of the schools in the district I worked for over 30 years here in Long Island. The TVs were on because the students 3-5 graders were watching the news for an unrelated reason. Then the tragic story broke thru. Next thing I knew there were military helicopters flying overhead...

Sure that works out to like less than a grand a year, a bargain! I'm not sure that I would repower my old boat, it's still in good shape but it is 38 years old, with the Cobra drive system, that for me had been really good but no one but one guy around here will work on them. Lucky for me I...

Back then the prices were so much better than now! In fact when I did my top engine overhaul in '17, I thought then, maybe I should just get a new long block. Shoulda! Now it's like double the price from then! But I liked the challenge of re-habbing the original engine so that's what I did.

I got curious about all this because I had a CDI coil fail on me, it read fine on the resistance in fact of all the aftermarket coils I have, it was the closest to the OEM spec. It would start but as soon as it got a little warm the engine would die out. It was probably getting worse since last...

I would say use whatever the manufacturer advises. I have had a roller trailer under my boat for many years with no damage. In my boating environment, a bunk trailer would be a pain due to shallow ramps. The trailer has 24 rollers and the boat weighs approximately 4100 lbs. Just had it weighed...

set point gap, check with dwell meter, then set timing, then re-set idle speed about as simple as it gets old school tune up circa 1966! For me very easy because I grew up with those cars, Chevrolets, Fords, and occasional Mopar. Also had air cooled VWs too. You have to know how to use a feeler...

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/omc-parts/omc-boat-parts.php?year=1994&hp=4.3&model=432AGPMDA&manufacturer=OMC+stern+drive&section=Alternator Looks like the one I posted above should work for yours as well

https://arcomarine.com/products/60125 I've had this one on my 1988 4.3 OMC Cobra for about 9 years, it works fine with the OMC wiring, the hook ups are simple, the large B+ orange wire and the Sense and Excite. On some OMCs excessive resistance in the Sense circuit causes battery over charging...

A have a couple of spares for my old OMC, and including the old OEM matches the specs in my shop manual…. OEM spec for secondary: 7500 ohms Actual reading on OEM coil: 8500 Prestolite aftermarket (this engine has a Prestolite points distributor): 15,000 CDI: 8500 but this one must be defective...

Glad you found it. Things like corrosion & oxidation are the devil in marine wiring!

Nice and quiet!

Here's what it looks like when you have it apart it is a bit tricky to get the air horn off and the choke linkage on the side properly cleaned out and adjusted they are good carbs

Here are the fuel pump specs from my OMC shop manual: 5.5-7 PSI Volume at cranking speed: 1 pint in 45 sec or less Vacuum at cranking speed: 9-10" of mercury Mine passed all of these tests, it took me a while to round up the fittings to do the tests safely due to the metal fuel line between the...

Agreed, the suck it up via the outdrive method does not work because of the nature of raw water cooling. With a cold engine, the stat is closed, all the water from the impeller will exit the exhaust elbows. As the stat opens, some water will exit the engine, but the stat will rarely stay open...

Yes

Jack up the wheel on that side and spin the wheel while pumping in grease….