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Painting isn't for everyone, my first attempt was not good either but after getting the hang of it then it wasn't such a frustrating chore. Saving the 1000's and having a decent paint job is the goal.

To keep solid connections make sure you use terminal blocks with a separate connector for each wire lead so you don't end up stacking connections. I like these. https://www.iboats.com/shop/marinco-multi-connection-battery-terminals.html and...

Definitely direct wire the bilge pump with a separate float switch. I have mine wired up to a helm switch but nothing should be wired to your starting other than the motor and it's trim.

Congrats on the win and welcome to the SOTY winners club 🏆

Voted for my favorite, the Starcraft :giggle: Nice work guys, tough one again this year (y)

The insert for the rubrail is Wefco Profile: 0101 G. You can't order online, you have to call with the profile and length needed. http://wefcorubber.com/PDF/marine/Rub-Rail%20Inserts.pdf

Not sure I've seen anyone use anodes other than what is on the motor/outdrive. My Islander has one on the transom but I doubt it did anything since they put it on paint and then painted it. You can see it in the pic above the bilge drain.

All tucked in for the long winters nap. :cool:

Very nice! (y)

Nice workspace, should make winter go by a little faster working inside.

Adjust seat height so you look through the upper windshield, if need be you can stand up too when docking and need more perspective.

At the height you have it set up now, the steering wheel will be way too low and your knees will hit it. Here is how I have mine set up.

Nothing worse than sawzall savants who own a boat, looks like your transom got hacked, it's a common target for those savages. :oops:

After the PMs and now looking at your transom set up pics, your splashwell style covers over the gunnels and the transom. The small strip (seen in the upper left of pic below) that you want to bend up can just be cut off or bent up and back down as it won't be visible once reassembled with...

Wrong thread posted

You want to use a solid rivet to repair the hole rather than a blind rivet to seal a hole in the bottom, one small impact or just routine trailer loading and unloading can snap the head off a blind. For the under deck ferrous metal, replace bracing with AL and use AL fasteners, blind or solid...

Yeah SC used 1/2 5 player marine ply for the decking. Double decking is done to either take a short cut or to do a quick fix and sell. The donor boat I got was decked over rotten.

Yeah typical of what you get now, I've been having an issue with one of the Shanghai LED lights on my SS trailer, it's not leaking but it works when it wants to.

Wilkommen und viele grüße aus Amerika!

The key is proper care of the boat keeping the elements away from all your hard work and investment. No matter what you do to seal wood if left to the ravages of the elements nothing will stand up for long. SC didn't seal any of the wood at the factory and most times held up for decades...