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Indoor winter boat work is the best way to make the long winter months go by quicker. Wishing I had a large enough space to get my 22'r inside.

Not all the sticky links are broken or have damaged threads after the forum overhaul, I repaired mine on rivets :) I also saved what I could of the SC brochures locally and some day this winter I plan on bringing them back.

Corrosion, yeah the difference between pour in foam and the old EPS they used prior to. My 79 SS had zero corrosion inside the hull even after being used in the Great Salt Lake, 9 times more saline than the ocean. I see guys wanting to put that pour in foam in their old tin and just shake my...

It sure can be some nasty boat work weather this time of year :cautious: For the rivets, have you looked at the rivets tutorial in the stickies? I have a cheap Husky air hammer for solids and a Shanghai Freight pneumatic blind riveter that have held up well over the years.

My SC steering wheels have all been roached and replaced. The SeaNymph had a usable wheel, all I did after removing the oxidized layer was to soak the wheel for a few days with 303 protectant.

I'd call it the nav side console. Slow and steady progress gets you there, the tear down, clean up and repair takes the longest.

I've used nothing but old road signs for patches, these hulls and the signs are 5052 Al so there's no difference in metal alloy.

Nice, that's a rare and beautiful find (y) I'm assuming it's a Mecruiser when I say this but finding a IO donor boat is the only way to go. Start scouring CL and FB market place for either a 4.3L V6 or 5.7L V8 Alpha One depending on your needs.

Tough to let go of these boats for sure. One of the iboat rules is not to try selling boats in the forum or the forums would be flooded with ads. Best bet is to use market place and post it in the Starcraft FB group.

I wouldn't waste the time and huge effort it takes to paint AL properly on the inside bottom, it really serves no purpose. Drain and pump fittings for livewells should be on the transom where nothing should ever impact them to cause a hull leak. My LW in the raised deck has an overflow that is...

Not sure what that beast is, looks like glass to me and poorly done at that, the Flintstone's come to mind. Yeah SC made IO jets, I've seen a couple islanders with jets with one nearby sitting in a field.

I center my tab anode, with power tilt and trim the prop torque pull goes away when you get up on plane and adjust the trim out.

Awesome to see your boy getting hooked on hunting early on. (y) Next week is black power elk for me, really looking forward to getting out in the woods.

I've only had to deal with corrosion on the transom skin, not any on the bottom, the boats I prefer are pre-pour in foam. We all have gathered our experience in certain areas so check out the thread by @classiccat . Although he doesn't like the title very much ;) CC is the patch and corrosion...

2 months dang that ate up the entire summer just about and that's why I learned to work on my own motors / drives. That and I'm cheap 😆

Yes and especially with your precious cargo that could be aboard.

The V5 extended bottom strake (not rake spell check) that nearly ends at the bow and the port side filler you can see.

Starcraft factory put the braces under the rib ends, welding near the seams will destroy the sealer and possibly cause issues with cracking later on. Yeah there are already 100's of holes filled with rivets below the waterline. Not sure how many of these cracked out spray rails you want to see...

No my Islander was an OB model. Nope that Islander in the video is a later model 5 years after the V5 but they kept the V5 style SW and similar hull design. It also doesn't have the extended bottom rake or port side fuel filler.

Welcome aboard, nice find and yeah the 22r's do seem to be more prevalent.