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Get the same size or slightly bigger (and color) wire. Replace from the eyelets to the tilt motor connector. The butt connector with integrated heatshrink work well. Every splice point is also a possible failure point. Connectors should be tight. Crimps should not pull apart with a firm tug. If...

If that is a stringer drive the green is positive power down. The blue is positive power up. Tilt motor don't have a ground. It uses the case bolts to intermediate housing for ground. Those connections are crap also and need to be changed

Steam box the wood

You laugh at that picture but I did parttime sidework for dominos and the guy that did those commercials actually worked at my store for awhile...

1. Check for spark 2. Check for working injectors. They sell a little indicator light that plugs into injector wire called a noid. If these don't work I would guess ecu. Also a quick check of your crank/cam triggers also.

Your diesel probably has a high torque or gear reduction starter.

Those don't look like crush nuts. They need to be "all metal" lock nuts. If they turn easy at all with a wrench or even with fingers play it safe and get new. A couple of bucks is good insurance

Hope you didn't roach your cam or lifter with a adjustment that was too tight

I put the ball from the receiver into the actuator. Put a come-a-long on the shank, put tension on it then bled, repeat til done

I got water in my motor once from not draining manifolds after done running it on the hose. Now I always pull those plugs on the exhaust just to be safe

Also don't exceed the ampcity of the wire size

At my work we use motion industries..... they do just about all industrial stuff from beaings to hydraulics, servos rams etc..... Plus I get a discount 🤪

I tell everyone to run from "jh" bolts. They have those letters on the head. I work on roller coasters and we had an issue with one of our rides snapping bolts and got a "skidmore" and tested the yield and failure points and they were the worst.

Everything wires to the "out" on battery selector switch. When moored switch to house, when running switch to start battery. Or both if you need to charge house. Also if either battery is way low it will pull the other one down trying to balance voltage

The way I have always done Chevys with hydraulic lifters and rockers like that is I have a set of little clips that cover the oil hole on the lifter. Set pushrods just past touch. With Warm motor and clips installed loosen stud nut til lifter rattles, tighten til just quiet then 1/4 turn.

Ima still tinkerin also

Don't remember off the top of my head about radial or bias. But I think I got d rated "trailer tires" I can look tomorrow BUTTTTT as far as Nanco tires..... junk! On one of the coasters I would work on we would use Goodyear tires and they would last about 4-5 years. Purchaser in tool crib tried...

Got one of those above my desk. Used to have to use it to calibrate takeup servo motors in imax film projector. My digital meter was too sensitive. Got rid of the projectors and now it sits and collects dust

And you can verify rings with a squirt of oil. If after getting a low reading a bit of heavy oil, enough to cover rings, and if compression comes up some.... the oil slows air. bypassing the rings. Do all three and you will know the answers

Free.....