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Is the lower unit in the pic off the 1973 65 hp? If it is I believe it is off of at least a 78 or newer motor and should work fine. Somebody will correct me if I am wrong.

What is the serial #?

Open the low idle screw an 1/8 of a turn.

That is mainly the Chrysler motor. It's as good as anybody else's just an older design. The problem is that Mercury owned them and Mercury sucks at carrying parts. Pretty sure that is the motor Mercury jacked the impeller price up to $180 for a piece of rubber. So evaluate it carefully before...

You have no clue

That is not what happend at all. U.S. MARINE bought Chrysler and changed the name to force in the late 70s early 80s. Brunswick bought US marine in the early 90s and kept the name.

I use OEM primer balls and fuel injection line to build the rest of it.

Is the switch on the remote actually plugged in?

Look to see if it has the optical ignition

Does the choke click at all? Did the mechanic check the ignition switch?

Is the arrow on the bulb pointing to the engine?

Are the linkages all connected? Link and sync correct? That is a 2+2 motor was the mechanic familiar with them.

Timing doesn't come off. What is wrong with your motor?

Broken drive shaft.

Sounds like your cables are out of adjustment

Is that a 4 cylinder motor?

Funniest statement I have seen today. Lmfao

1990 model. But year doesn't matter on a Mercury. Serial # is the only thing needed for the parts guide. How sure are you it's a prop seal leak? Sounds normal after running on muffs to have a puddle unturned fuel/oil mix under the skeg. What does it smell like

Not to you. I answered your questions about the line. The colored stuff gets hard over time. I would use the black furl injection line. The gray line is terrible.

Take it to a dealer or buy a new motor.