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If the tie is holding the choke position open the solenoid will not pull choke plunger down. It will only wiggle when activated

First you need to lose the homemade clip-on choke and install correct keeper o-ring. The reason choke won't work is wire tie on cable below solenoid has flaps locked open.

EMP brand...made it Italy 300-02882

Those are water droplets from leaking head gasket or water in fuel or oil tank

Does inside you case look like this? And prop shaft like this?

I really don't think they would handle the amperage

That why you need to post pictures. The unit with nut refers to spanner nut that holds driveshaft and bearing in place. Also there is not a model called Torpedo, that just refers to shape.

post some pic of what ypu got...end of prop shaft that has shifting parts

My area a clean ,running 2L will bring $950-1300

The kill tether that attaches to the switch, is a mechanical kill. When installed and engine running, if pulled it turns key to off. Engine will start and run and kill if not installed. Sounds like switch is working as designed.

Your unit if original will be a pin shift like a Inline outboard. The (c) casting my be for a desmodromic shift as change in 1980

Your motor is a 90° not a 60° so information is incorrect.

No

It self primes, if ol tank on engine is low ,just start it ,remove cap and let it run till oil starts to overflow and then replace cap.

It the 2psi bypass, has no line.

Simply preignition, most always a ignition related problem

Compression and spark test needed

See post #34 and 39

What is casting number on block?

That motor has been apart before...#2 has a Siezco piston, #4 looks to have a .030 piston(P3 casting) and had the new style head gaskets instead of original brown gasket. IMO I would just find a running motor and swap and use this one for parts.