Search results

If you have a tear in the u-joint bellows, expect to change the gimble bearing and u-joints. Actually, you will just change the entire drive shaft and likely the driveshaft seal where it goes into the drive. Hopefully not much water got into your drive becuase that is a definite possibility...

You disagree that the spec is 45,000RPM and that a wheel only rotates at 733RPM? The math is pretty simple. I guess those 100s of thousands of people that use the EZ-Lube and Bearing Buddys that fill their hubs full are littered along the highways!

The RPMs of a tapered wheel bearing in a wheel application is a fraction of the percent that they are rated to run at so its not even close to being an issue if the hub is full of grease. The temperature influence of the brakes and just the sun beating on them is WAY more of an effect. A...

LOL....so what? As long as the piston is not bottomed out and you can rock the piston, there is positive pressure in the hub which is all you want! You haven't pulled hubs and inspected bearings in 10 years? LOL

What is a gear interrupt button?

Or better yet...A Delco Voyager distributor.

This one is a timing light and dwell meter in one if you don't already have a timing light https://smile.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=INNOVA+5568&qid=1626707957&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I have never had a problem with Bearing Buddys. Even if there is a pocket of air in the hub, the sole purpose of the bearing buddy is to have positive pressure in the hub so zero need for them to actually be 100% full. Over time, you may need to add more grease if that air pocket seeps out.

The water level has to be even with the pump on the front of the engine. That is impossible using a bucket.

I would think the zerk would hit the buddy bearing.

And just be aware, you need all the parts including the updated bellcrank shaft to do this.

I always do it on the load side. That way, if you have the switch off and a dual bank battery charger connected to the batteries, the ACR won't combine.

This area is where the bellcrank attaches to the shift cable. It can fill with water which is what caused this to crack. On my Cobra that I used to have, I replaced that round flat bushing that you see near the crack with a newer version that has a zerk fitting so you can fill that entire area...

Call the Cobalt factory. I have called them numerous times regarding mine.

Buy it right now. For future reference you have an MD model. The Volvo MD and the OMC MD are identical since this is one of the joint venture years. Another BTW...a lot of people that have these EFI Fords pull the EFI and put carbs on them when they can't fix the EFI....just a warning for you...

Here is a manual set for your model number MD. Fortunately, this set has the Ford EFI diagnostics book. Those are hard to come by. BTW...this is a bargain!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/164773216020?hash=item265d3fbf14:g:eek:D0AAOSwx~hgV4uB

It needs to be pumping fuel to test. The bigger problem is testing the high pressure pump. I have zero idea how to test this Ford high pressure pump. I do not have a manual for this engine. That's the first thing you need to get before you proceed any further

This is the page that shows the parts of your fuel system. There is another pump besides the one above the filter. http://www.volvopentastore.com/Intake-And-Exhaust-System/dm/cart_id.566785989--session_id.892541834--store_id.366--view_id.782705 Just so you know, you have a Ford engine, the...

Did the filter have fuel in it? Was it full of fuel?

Turn on the fuel pumps manually using jumpers(pin 87 to 30) and measure your fuel pressure. You may only have one fuel pump on yours. Can you post your model number?