Search results

Best designed boat I have ever seen. Should have bought one years ago

I am in fresh water now 100% so not an issue. Even if I was in salt...cost of boating. BTW, won't be long before large outboard all have catalysts. Starter is super easy to get at home n my boat. I can lay in bilge and stare at it one foot from my face. I can drain the water out of the engine...

LOL...best thing about my boat is the sunpad and the walk through and the huge swim step. And it easier to work on than a 33 year old Four Winns.

With my Cobalt R5, the engine compartment is so big, I can physically lay next to the engine. Very handy when changing spark plugs and doing compression checks. Of course it's also nearly 26' long. It is a bow rider though! The pieces to the side of the engine come out with just a couple...

What gear oil are you using?

Are you in the water doing the tests or with flushing muffs? Just so you know, in the water, the pump sits below the water line so the pump never needs to prime. Hopefully, you aren't testing this by putting the drive in a bucket.

Where should I start: 1) Disc brake rotors that warped...every single one of them 2) Disk brake calipers that seize 3) Lug studs that snap even when using a torque wrench to tighten to spec. 4) Brake master cylinder that leaks after 3 year. Replaced their disc brakes with Kodiak..no problems...

Hopefully people realize it's still the POS Tiedown.

It is not a rebadged Tiedown unit. Its still a Titan Dico unit. I know because I just abought a few of them for my trailer and for others. https://smile.amazon.com/TITAN-DICO-Model-Lever-Actuator/dp/B0072BKEPQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=titan+dico+model+60&qid=1625695656&s=automotive&sr=1-4...

I just bought one of these. Works great to get gas out of jerry cans. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010GNM7H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is correct. You have to look from the bottom. And you may have to move the throttle forward to access it. These controls are a PITA. They are actually an OMC control so if you change to a Volvo style control, you will have to change both the throttle and shift cable. For the throttle only...

How were you measuring pressure while it was pumping fuel?

He has a 19 year old fuel pump.

The more I think about it, You should just replace the fuel pump. Even if it isn't the issue, Its pretty much at the end of its lifespan anyway. MIne failed around the ame number of years as yours. Also, I always carried a short jumper to bypass the fuel pump relay. You can use it for testing...

I guess you missed where he already used an external tank with a primer bulb.

Yes...That's the first thing I would do. After that, checking float level would be my next step. Does the fuel pump make a whining noise at all? That's the first thing they do when they start to fail. On my carb'd Volvo, that's what happened with mine.

He has a carb. There is one pump. The ones that had flakes were the dual pump modules used on fuel injected models. If this was a fuel injection module, you couldn't even use a mechanical pump. Starting in the mid to late 90s, GM blocks didn't even come with a place to put a mechanical pump...

Not on Volvos...uses alternator output Never heard anything about the terminals of the Volvo relays. So...what year Volvos have you owned?

You need to gives us more info...fuel injection or carb?

I used to use the clips. I don't bother anymore. On my current boat, if I lost hydraulics, the sterndrive would still never hit the ground. If your drive would hit the ground if you lost a line or the ram failed, use it as an insurance.