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Never ever start your engine with the drive fully up. More than likely that is how you broke your u-joint. May also be why you now have gear oil in your bellows. You learned the hard way.

He said his u-joint was broken.

You are not going to like this but just buy a new driveshaft. I know its expensive but it will work first time. You will have to have a marine shop install it. You probably already realize this but the drive was shaking because of the broken u-joint. As far as how the u-joint got broken, do...

The reverse lockout solenoid gets its ground from the trailer ground. The trailer ground is connected to the vehicle ground through the 5 or 7 pin connector. You never rely on the ground through the hitch ball.

Exactly...not planning any insurrection or coup in the distant future. As far as paying my credit card by phone, who in the heck does that? It's all paid online.

How are they stealing your identity?

Love Alexa. We have 3 in this house 2 in another and another 2 in another. My life isn't that interesting that I am worried about being spied on.

You can pull the piece that slides in the coupler to make sure it is all ok but my bet is on the caliper pins needing service.

When was the last time you took the calipers off and lubed the guide pins? BTW, 120 and 180 is not that hot if you just stopped the trailer. What did you pump grease into? Bearing Buddy? EZ Lube? How often do you pull your wheels and repack bearings?

Yeah...can't really check something like that. If the wax seal has failed, no tightening will help. I also don't use wax rings anymore. I use these especially for floors that have been tiled with the flange below the surface of the floor...

It could be that you have a bend in the plumbing too close to the toilet flange. That makes a poorly designed toilet worse. I fixed a poorly flushing toilet by replacing it with a higher quality toilet. In my houses, I only use the newer Kohler toilets. Best low volume toilets out there. Only...

Not sure how much DC you will be getting off the AC tap of an alternator. This is the diagram of the Volvo alternator showing the P terminal coming off one of the windings. No diode rectifier between the windings and the P terminal. If you measure any DC voltage , that's just the offset...

You can use a P rated tire on a trailer. You just need to derate it 10%. 90% of the time, once you derate it, it won't have the capacity for the load you are trying to tow. My travel trailer uses 14" tires. There is no way in hell I could find a passenger tire in 14" to support the weight of...

Put a cell phone camera down there and start videoing where the water is coming out. Obviouslly do this before you pull the boat out. You need to see exactly where the water is coming in.

I would bypass the kill (man overboard) switch or at least check the voltage on each side of it with the key turned on. Since you have power to the bilge and blower, that shows the 50A breaker is ok.

Buy a new modern alternator that has a built in regulator.

Do you have a picture of the wiring of your alternator we can see? I put an answer on your other post. Assuming this is the same alternator that has the external regulator, switch to a new alternator with an internal regulator.

Sounds good. Once your brakes are bled, I can actually imagine it takes some good effort. Think about it, that thin stainless cable needs to be strong enough to pull that lever. Not sure it could handle 1200# myself. Take it out for a test ride and see how it works.

Travel trailers typically don't have surge brakes like boat trailers have. Anderson hitches are incompatible with surge brakes. Please tell me you aren't towing a 29' travel trailer with a GMC Canyon.

I actually had the EXACT same one that you have. I also have a few of the newer versions of the one you have. With the one that you have, I eventually locked it out when I put on an EOH system. This is the one I put on my disc brake trailer I just sold...