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It gonna smoke with premix and if recirc valves are clogged even a lil more till the reeds clear out. Clean the ricirc valves and check fuel pump diaphram just for giggles

No ..you will need to get the 2 piece one.. Use the puller to remove the one from the 1996 unit and take the new driveshaft and pop it in place, reinstall impeller components and install you old shift rod to spec height..

Looks like a 1996... around 275 lbs

Order the puller and driveshaft..takes about 10 minutes to set up, pull and change.. https://www.sterndrive.cc/product/omc_driveshaft_removal_tool_390706.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/255171269898

The 1996 is a 2 piece...just pop it out of clip and install the correct shaft .

Sounds like pressure valve on block is not bleeding off oil tank. This causes oil to be pushed thru oil pump and into fuel line making mixture extremly rich. Also seen it push oil seal out of pump flooding port side cylinder with oil

Da ignition/kill switch is below that hole...

Just buy the correct driveshaft for the 1996...339059 and then it will fit

Did you check the thermal valve on starboard head? Does it do this after running and setting?

And may I ask why they need adjusting??? They are preset at factory that why the tamper proof caps.

Check with a different tester as thats wayyy to low,,,should be 120+ with the small cc heads.

That year is set at 22° at cranking speed

Serial places it late 1985 early 1986

The reeds or broke /cracked reed block will not cause symptoms shown in video.. it is a ignition problem.

Verado?

Reed damage will not cause the symptoms shown.....

A timing light is your best friend right now......it will show you ignition drop outs at all rpms

Yer best picks for 90hp to 600hp outboards are: (1) Merc (2) Yammy (3) Zuki

Detonation that broke rings..common with bad idle/advance module. Yes it can be bored, .020 should clean it up easily

Check each cylinder with a timing light..