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15 yrs ago

from 11 yrs ago????

That is usually when they start to act up when they get warm. Stay away from the inline spark testers. Get one that has an actual adjustable air gap

Small gear puller to pull them off of the laminates. Make sure to bend down the locking tab

Whats it running wih the thermostas in it? 100 is way to low and is this a looper or a crossflow motor?

Is the tell tale plugged? Water tube lined up in the pump housing? Key installed.

Is there a rubber hub in that pulley?

Clean your carb again and make sure you blow air through all the passages.

Put up a pic of the ignition module.

yes it should be. Easy to check put a mark on the prop shaft and turn the drive shaft. Drive shaft should turn 2 times for 1 of the propshaft.

What about the points? You should have to turn the throttle up in neutral to start it. Does spark jump a 1/4" air gap yes or no? Is the needle bearing in? Have you tried adjusting the carb? Float set paralell to the body when it is upside down?

Its your gear ratio. 13:26 = 2.00-1

You need to clean your whole carb. What motor are we talking about here? Does it have a choke or a primer? It sounds like your idle circuit or main jet is still plugged.

That is a looper motor I believe you need to keep the VRO. Look at OMCs premix style VRO. Or if you don't t pay the price or have the oil injection, there are cheap chineseum vro pumps available

The McCulloch 45 will be significantly better on fuel and Very close in power.

Local Mercury dealer can help you with that. That motor looks to be more from the 80s than 70s.

Does spark jump a 1/4" air gap? What is your compression? Points clean and set correctly?

Get a different gauge and retest the compression. All those #s are terrible. Spark test is a waste of time until you confirm compression #s

that compression is not good.

Get a manual specific to your motor. I believe that is an electric shift model.