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In theory removing it over winter layup will reduce the amount the impeller takes a set , bends the vanes back, but if it’s a PITA to get to I’d leave it alone and just replace it more often.

Usually it’s just near the serial number - on left hand ( from rear of drive) side of upper it maybe imprinted on the mercruiser label but it is stamped under this on the drive. I think there are sites on line where you can look it up if you have the drive serial number off the owner literature

Remove the drive and check gimbal and ujoints

To run you need compression,fuel, and spark. You verified 12 v at the coil in run but do you have adequate spark at the plugs? If you have spark dump a little gas down the carb if it coughs or runs a bit you know it’s fuel related, either supply or carb needs rebuilding. Somewhere InThere verify...

there are no relays In The harness. Start with first things first. If the plug wires fall off fix that first. I would suspect this is part of your intermittent spark issue . Rule this out. Check if there is 12 when cranking On the r terminal. If there is it replace the starter, if there is 12...

Bearing clearance or connecting rod big end out of round causes that . If you can’t find someone local who is comment machine shop wise buy from somebody like Michigan motorz. New base engines are about$3800, reman are like $2400. you can save some getting yours rebuilt just needs to have...

Yes start with correct wires...I bet you can take needle nose pliers and stretch the connections so they firmly fit. Didn’t u just replace all this? Start by zeroing the mileage with wear otherwise you are chasing garbage

Yes turn the crank - but find a competent machine shop first and have them go through it- check the crank and rods. Nothing you can cath your nail on will work . When you say it was a new 2019 3.0 - new GM marine base engine or a remanufactured by some knucklehead?

Chaffing on wire from points to negative side of coil can do this

Exactly if supplying 12 v direct from battery wouldn’t matter if there are upstream voltage issues

When this happens take the coil wire off the distributor cap ground it and see if you get a spark while cranking. It’s possible your loosing spark in the cap and rotor

Good to hear you knew what you were getting into and paid appropriately. I did the same thing five years ago- bought a boat with a known cracked engine block. Did the repower myself and it has been perfect for my family use.

Did you set or verify the timing by putting it in base mode? I’m wondering if the timing is not correct and that may be causing hard starting

If it’s comp,Evelyn dry I would think it would make some noise. What did you do to the drive ? Was it working or did u have it apart for maintenance

Water pump impeller

There’s no resistor wire on a a TBV ignition that was only used on older points systems. your comment above on the tach wire. There are two wires going to negative side of coil. One that goes to the ignition module one that goes to the tach. If there’s only one wire they split of somewhere in...

What necessitated replacing the timing set ? I have the same ignition if there’s a whiff of gas In there it starts right up.

Dwell is a measurement of the amount of time (expressed in degrees of shaft rotation) the points are oclosed, which is what builds energy in the coil, that discharges when they open. While using a feeler gauge will get you in the ballpark it is subjective because you have to have the points on...

Michigan Motorz has both remanufactured and new base engines in that budget range. But you can save some money if you have a local engine machine shop who knows what they are doing

Be Nice