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I would have a bit of 1/4" round bar stitched to that edge myself

Pinellas park to be specific. It's all "St Pete" down here as the whole county is an island Going to make a call

When you repack, then read the part numbers off the existing wheel bearing and buy the same

Check fuel pressure at WOT. Could have the VP paint issue in the fuel cooler

Do a compression check. If you pull the heads, look at the ridge. If you can catch a nail on it, then rebuild. Pull the pan and plastigage the bearings. At 80k, I would probably only borescope the cylinders when I went to look at it

A good fabricator can straighten your anchor

South coast is a small manufacturing shop in St Pete FL

Don't back in too deep, walk the boat on the trailer

Block should be imperial

Depending on year, a mix.

Check fuel pressure and choke setting

If your motor was ever run in salt, the damage is done. Adding a heat exchanger may slow the corrosion, however the rust will plug the heat exchangers. My suggestion. Run the boat until you need a new motor. Then add a HX at that time

Did the CB get submerged? If do, may have internal corrosion

Heads and intake are probably cracked too. Get a new longblock, new manifolds, new circulation pump, and transfer the carb and front accessories over

The cable length and part number is hot-stamped on the cable every foot or so However disconnect the tiller pin and verify it's the cable and not the drive pivot before spending money

Round gauge and trim controller? "Sender" is just a potentiometer. Did you set up the starwheel and segment per the manual? The whole last section of the drive factory service manual is setup and trouble shooting of the trim system...

Hole in front of casting about 1mm in diameter connected to the fitting.

contact avalon

one to the thru-hull pickup with a fake-a-lake adapter, one to the outdrive on muffs.

the speedometer can hook up to either.