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threads are 1/2-13. per my guy, its a seawater pressure port for a seawater sensor. however since you already have a seawater pressure sensor on the PS cooler, you could get a small pencil anode in there if you wanted.
actually, looking at where it it, that is most likely where an annode would go - the inlet side of the HX tube side. threads are 1/2-13 with o-ring. anode would be 10mm or 3/8"
will have to pull the end cap to determine how long of a pencil you can use before hitting the dividers
Ted, text me the pic, will send it to my buddy Arty. if you send me the serial number on the HX, He can also tell me which tech put the core bundle together, and who tested it.
40 grit sanding disc on DA.
make sure you have your proper PPE or fiberglass dust will kill you
when you think you sanded enough, sand some more.
go thru some of the restoration threads. 4th sticky down, link 14 is a good one.
It's never the coil...ever
With only 40psi, your fuel pressure is low
With compression in the 115-120 range, the motor needs a rebuild
If your neutral safety switch is bad, motor won't rev when in gear
Time to start trouble shooting
Y'all own a boat with motors. If you want economy get oars or sails. My boat gets many smiles per gallon.
Fuel is usually the cheapest part of boat ownership
Just swap heads, cam and intake and you have easy 320hp.
Heads are $800 new, or $400 used
Cam kit is $600
Gaskets are $100
Intake and carb - $700 new, or $200 used
Time to look here
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/
Read links 14, 15, 17, 18, 2, 3, 4a and 4b
Remove the drive
Remove the motor
Remove the interior
Pull the cap
Start the restoration