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someone loves photoshop...... LOL

the whole deck looks like it could be replaced. however since you didnt want to do that, the sheet metal patch would be quick and cheap.

your block drain hose in the single-point crack your block drain system is plugged with sediment. dubs has you pointed in the right direction. I personally would remove the single point drain system.

make sure your bilge pump works get the boat on plane to get the bellows out of the water on your trip back to the ramp. its going to leak like a sieve.

first, welcome aboard merc would have a 305 GM motor in 1994 and not a 302 Ford motor Volvo and OMC used 302 ford motors as well as 305 GM motors in 1994. please confirm this is a mercruiser go thru the troubleshooting guide in the stickies...

If you don't set the dwell first, you can't set timing

If you work on a boat, you should have a toolbox full of tools

Motor prices today are about 40% more than they were in 2020

Spark plugs are NOT metric 5/8"

Call them. They have seals and I saw shafts

Did you check the "where are you ?" map in the restoration area stickies?

No, pressure treated wood should never be on an aluminum boat. The chemicals will eat the aluminum

I would just screw a 16 gauge stainless sheet metal patch over the hole However if you want to scarf in a stepped plug and cover with 2 layers of 1708, that is up to you

usually failed pump means not enough pressure or no pressure

14" is the minimum distance. measure first before spending beer money

measure the riser to SWL. should be 14" or more. if not, you need risers

check your grounds

looks like a XL motor (25") on a short shaft transom (15") the Anti-Ventilation plate should be even or even 1" above the bottom of the keel, not 12" lower

Gauges are easy I = Ignition (purple) GND = Ground (black) L = Light (dark blue) S = Signal tan = water temp light blue = oil pressure grey = tach pink = fuel

I used these guys for my VP kits. https://five-star-marine.myshopify.com/ I also got my pin-spanners on Amazon.