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Then a few rod holders, a grill, a cooler some friends and good times.

These same people haven't maintained their motor per the manual.

Marketing. Can charge more for stickers

Drain and pressure test cooling system. If it holds 15 psi, look at exhaust. Do an acetone test on the manifolds. Also, if your base timing is to advanced you can get reversion at idle

Transom

Actually the transom wood rotted years ago allowing the transom to crack when the motor was hit because there was no strength left A good transom would literally shear off the lower unit before taking any damage Transoms rot from the bottom up, starting near the drain

I would avoid YouTube as most videos have incorrect information

^ +1. What he said

FWIW, there are busted blocks in Florida, Texas, Georgia, and Louisiana this winter

Brake lines being steel have thinner walls than the stainless tube used on PTT systems Regarding leaks, you would have to investigate Most of the time it's a damaged port cone

Sounds like timing is off and you are over advanced. Or you are running really lean

You won't be able to color match your current boat as the color has faded. I would call the customer service number Or paint it what ever color you want

people are still rockin OMG Stringers.....

you should have done all your patch work on the inside. working on the outside is 100x harder

then find a gearhead near you and ask how much he would charge to swap parts. lefty-loosy, righty-tighty

BS a reman'd motor is $2800. a good running 4.3 from the local pull-your-part salvage yard is $300. add marine gaskets, core plugs, new water pump and new manifolds and thats only $1000

simply not true. if that is the case your car would need a complete new brake system every time you remove a caliper. the SAE inverted flare is one of the most prevalent hydraulic connections in the world.

even if you go XR, M6, etc.

is it a bad line? if yes, replace the line is it simply not tightened enough? if yes, properly tighten is it crud on the inverted flare seat? if yes, back off the nut slightly, rotate the line back and forth a bit to clear the crud and retighten troubleshoot prior to spending money.

just get the motor to TDC on cylinder #1. pull the cap, wire cylinder #1 to the tower the rotor is pointed to.