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Well yes Bondo. I'm so used to working on inboards/IO's/sailboats that I got lost in the topic. Thanks. lol

Propane should be stored in a sealed locker, except for the venting outside the boat, The vent shall be in the bottom of that locker as propane is heavire than air. A sniffer is recomended in the cabin area down low to detect any fumes that may have accumulated there from propane or fuel.

Doubt myself if that was factory. The hole has chipping, and the foam is not sealed in. I don't know if that boat style had hollow stringers, or wood filled ones myself. I'll hang out and see what others have to say. It's possible someone drilled the hole to see if it was wet in there.

If you are cutting the steel line and flaring, it has to be a double flare. No matter if on a car or boat or airplane.

Yet another case where replacing the line and fittings come into play. If it leaks due to wear, it needs to be replaced.

This ^^. Pipe thread yes but not flares.

Any flare fitting does NOT get tape or sealant. It bugs me to when I see that. If the flare has been tightend to much, it's shot. Replacing it along with the fitting it seats into is the only option.

Good question. *sometimes* you can rub the number and see it more clearly. The number usually is melted in but not always. Look up also on how to measure it. I'm getting the same result as you with google.

Mondo, If you pulled the deck you would have seen the plumbing. If you did a deckover, you have more rot and weight that you don't need. Yup you broke something.

If it's an original deck, when you pull it up you will see where the foam actually is, if any. Replace it with the same, and Maby some extra if there is places to put it.

I've seen a few props from saltwater use that had a rubber spray coating of sorts on them. Don't know what it was though. Stainless *shouldn't* need a coating?

yes, that is the best route, but when someone is throwing out a good chunk of steel, it's free and flat. I always check the straightedge for flatness every few uses.

Very similar to mt rebuild. Mines an 85 i/o though. I'm plugging away it, all thats left is putting it together. and some paint. I'll have to find pics as the old computer took a dump with my pics.

If you can get hold of some old planer blades, they make good straight edges. The backside is usually pretty flat, you should look them over good before use, but it works for me.

Yes, compression is alot higher than vacuum. I was just thinking in the suction side of the case. It does go both ways from downstroke to upstroke.

Recheck the surface after you get it cleaned up properly. Looks like gasket residue on there to me.

It was designed the way it is because it needed it. Cutting down the capacity can starve the motor of needed lubrication. Keep the 7 quart pan please.

It's hard to find a ladder to fit the current setup. The mfg change the designs as often as we change our underwear.

yeah, today we put a light bulb about a foot and a half under there. At the end of the day the 5200 was running out/down. Sh**.....And the bad part is the strut is located under the fuel tank in the aft berth. We have a younger guy who has to lay behind the tank, on his side and reach with one...

Yes, it's 60deg in the shop.