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The main thing with winterizing is to completely drain all water from the system. Make sure to mechanically clear the drain ports with a stiff wire or a screwdriver

And what troubleshooting have you done? Carbed or EFI? If EFI, you need Rinda

That started in the 30s. Fort Myers and Punta Gorda are both built on swamp land

2000 people a day are moving to Florida

OK, then check the shaft gland, service the strut bearings and rudder gland, change the raw water impeller if you haven't done it recently

Try here http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/index.php?title=Herters

Other than what you posted, no

Change oil and filters. Drain the blocks, manifolds and hoses. Pull the drives and do the annual PMs Basically the info from the manual

OMC has been out of business since the 90s

I suspect the fleabay u-joints are junk. Suggest spicer or GKN

Any reason the floor wasn't rub all the way to the chines?

Run inconel only if you are running a supercharger Not needed for your motor unless you like wasting money

You wait for the manual

OEM pumps are Carter/Airtex

You have to properly set timing before you worry about the prop.

Sensor is on a switch that connects to ground

Thought the doc looked familar

boats that old generally have the drain plug as a reverse clamshell with the plug inside the boat on the bottom

Just dont keep track of the receipts where the admiral can find them.....

the deck-over is a sign of rotten transom, stringers, etc. the deck is always the last thing to rot welcome to the full gut-n-restore crowd.