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The fitting is on the stb side. It may have the grease plug in it if it's the greaseless type. You really should pull the boat out of the water and remove the drive asap! The u-joints and gimble will have to be replaced, and to get the water out before it wrecks the driveshaft sealing area.

Got to be the switch then. They do wear out.

The led flares are legal, mostly for night, they float but are hard to see from any distance. Normally the kit comes with a flag, wich makes it legal for the daytime use, at least in my area. Reguardless, I still carry the pistol flares even after they expire, they still work. I'll shoot the old...

Did the shop drill and check the inner wood? Normally when it's leaking at the seal, the wood is soft breaking the seal. Silicone might get you through but if the transom cracks from the major torque put on it constantly, You will sink fairly quickly!

How about a pic of the rest of the boat and what it uses for a motor? At this point I have to assume it's a bowrider as they were popular back then.

^^^ correct. The fuel that comes out of the carbs will evaporate away. The oil remains. I grease the shaft but don't use to much so it don't do that as badly. "just enough" sometimes it's to much and that happens....

That should screw into the housing till it bottoms out, then tighten the nut. If it's shifting fine after that it might be ok.

^^ No it would have not caused it to leak more. You have an issue to address. Hope it's not a rotten transom.

There are some with the plug installed from the inside. usually its straight down by the keel. It has a "t" handle on it...

The higher you drop it from, the faster it will go!

if your paying attension you don't run stop signs. if your paying attension, you don't hit another boat.

To help prevent the gasket from ripping, I use a touch of vaseline on the gasket before installing. keeps it from sticking if it has to come apart again.

Look down the carb when the engine is running/idling. The stream should be a fine mist, any droplets in the flow indicates to much fuel. Usually from a sunk float in my experiance.

Did you run it on muffs? If you didn't you won't see any leaks.

The only that's changed for me is: Now I pay someone else to do it.

I glassed the entire floor in also. I put deckplates where the sender and hoses are. In my lifetime I won't have to get in there anyway.

You will have a power wire to go to each light. The ground will be one of the bolts that attach each light to the frame. Make sure they are clean and shiney. Here is a diagram to help.

Start by checking the grounds at each light, and at the tounge where the white wire attaches to the frame. I always tap into that white wire, run it to each light individually. Less problems with a bad ground. from there you will check each bulb connection and put dialectric grease on each one.

At this point It wouldn't hurt to have the carb rebuilt. Many mechanics are afraid to touch a carb as they are complicated. I myself have no problem rebuilding them. The only thing that will happen if you do is get rid of doubt that is the issue. Checking the manifolds is also a good idea.

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