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I would suggest PMGR

Either will work for your motor, note the max amp rating PG200 standard duty PG260 heavy duty

Opinion: I have not kept a boat in the water all year but have done it for a month or so with my 23 footer. I used a 60 watt light bulb placed in the blige and did not close the vents. Opened the engine hatch and it was toasty warm inside The water staying 40-50*F will not need a lot to keeps...

Normally you don't find a fuse on the Negative, if it blows or loses connection (as it did) then return power may find another route which could place an unexpected heavy load on smaller conductors. A galvanic isolator is installed on the 120VAC Ground, have not seen one on a 12V positive...

Disconnect the temp switch (item 5) on the intake, this should keep the fuse from blowing. If ignition switch blows after temp is disconnected then disconnect the TKS carb https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31493/12833/90

Current plan is to cut flush at the top and below deck level at the bottom. Support roof angled outward to give room for building of forms.

If it feels good, then its like water flows the path of least resistance. If one cap is weak, then this is were it will leak out. When greasing watch the joint and pump slowly. You should notice the cross move a bit. I thing your good

I would run the motor off a gas can Best guess now is the gas in the tank is bad. This is why it starts if gas is put in cylinders but not from the tank.

In all cases we need to know what your working on. Serial numbers are best but in this case and being a 1988 tells me its probably points distributor but need confirmation

The TKS has 2 power feeds which can power the ignition. The TKS fuse and the 20 amp fuse from the key switch (not shown in pic) This is a simplified pic

Thanks You don't have a IAC or TPS, you have TKS carb. Normally when the fuse blows it just keeps the carb running rich, but it does keep running. For it to start killing the motor I would look at the temp switch and the TKS module Verify you have a carb that looks like this

It appears to go where arrow is pointing. Then again I'm using a diagram of maybe which is not yours. If there is a model number on the throttle this would help. The detent is held in place by other parts like item 35. The pic I'm using above is not exact so this is why I left the link so...

Do search around, as FT mentioned its a GM part. I search on just the old number and found it at Walmart and Amazon for 170 or so. Sierra has them for less Should be a cross over to Mallory of Standard

I have a 10 brake and can bend the aluminum around, but in most cases it won't look as good as a factory snap around kind of thing Agree, would use spacer between wood and concrete Thanks

Assuming its newer then 1994 I think its the roller detent item 66 In the link you will find all the controls for 94 and up https://www.mercruiserparts.com/remote-controls-and-components-1994

If a scanner is placed back on it, watch the TPS volts and IAC position

The TPS is on the throttle body (TB), the IAC is either on the TB or the intake Again, I need a serial number

That's some nice close up pics, but I need one further away showing the throttle handle and/or throttle handle model number

With your fuel pump not turning ON I would check fuses. Not familure with the 570, is that a Ford or GM? The Gi 10 pin is in pic and you can buy a new pigtail and solder in place.

When asking a question always best to provide the motor serial number, this way we know what your working on The 15 amp fuse should be 12V main power. Things that draw direct from the fuse are the main power relay (MPR), power control module (PCM), idle air control (IAC), and throttle position...