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then go to your fathers registration (would have year) and get it registered in your name

only you can determine if its worth it. being a 45 year old boat, it may need a complete hull restoration. generally, if you plan to get your money out of it, you wont. the only way to make a small fortune restoring boats is to start with a large one. the only reason most people restore...

^+1 what he said. if that compression plug is leaking, its not the plug, its either your transom tube or transom has an issue.

generally, 140 for carbed fresh water cooled, 160 for carbed HX cooled and EFI fresh water cooled, 180 for EFI HX cooled

you must put the TB-5 in base timing mode. at idle

new boats down here in Florida are closer to $30k to get into a small boat/trailer/motor. not sure where you are that boat prices are that depressed. every boat manufacturer that I currently professionally deal with is sold out thru 2023 as Roscoe stated, where is here?

you use the uscg hp calculation formula. or most likely about 15hp.

start at the back of the gauges and follow the black wires.

rebuild your carb and clean the fuel system BTW, electronic ignition can not make the motor run better than properly serviced points.

than how do you prove its yours. if you bought it without paperwork, how did the seller prove it was theirs?

The year should be on your paperwork Easy restoration, always worth it on a tinny

First, welcome aboard Since volvo had 7 I/O motor in 1989, would be helpful to know what you are working on. However the schematic is in the factory service manual and the wiring colors are standard. Big red wire from battery to the B terminal Yellow wire with red stripe to S terminal Purple...

If the vac secondaries are opening too soon, go heavier on the spring. However you should hear them opening. Should be about 3500 RPM with moderate load, or 2500 with heavy load. They will go whhhhaaaaaa when the open, and whistle when they are almost closed I wouldnt go to a 7.5 power...

yes, was answered here https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1975-351cu-233hp-mercruiser-riser-block-off-plates-or-not.748366/#post-5689650

people quit buying things on CL due to all the scammers and prefer Facetube Marketplace. I dont understand that logic quality used inventory is extremely low, with primarily project boats left and many new buyers getting stuck with a bum boat that they thought they were getting a deal on. so...

bullet connectors were a cheap connector that could be over-moulded to things like trailer harness connections. that is why they were used in the first place. however better connectors came along and they were pretty much phased out of use.

doubt there is a marine spec. I switched all the bullet connectors on my boat to 2-pin deutsch DT series connectors.

stock output for the original 3.0 liter alternator was 35 amps. (I fat fingered post 2 from the phone) the V8's got 45 or 55 amp outputs define "decent stereo" you may have to run multiple batteries stock alternator output wiring was 8 gauge I believe on the OMC 3.0's

Probably 5 amps

Newbies cant read rhe rules, much less do math