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I agree with Chris, I would also recommend the flotation foam. you literally are talking 2# per cubic foot, so the weight of an 12 pack of beer is all that you are talking.

you can order custom paint from companies such as Chris Craft, Nautique, Wellcraft, and others. check with what ever company you are intersted in if they do custom colors. it will cost you more, and you will have to wait a while for the boat.

at a minimum you get a fine

welcome aboard not sure that little 2.3 has enough power to ski behind it definitely would not put a 4-blade prop behind the 2.3 did you take the boat out for a test run prior to buying it?

your vacuum at idle determines your power valve. Marine engines tend to use lower numbers like a 25 or 35 vs an automobile at 65 or so get the test fitting. https://www.cpperformance.com/p-62701-fuel-fitting-connector-91-18078.aspx

If you have a 4 cylinder, its a stringer 400. If you have a V6 or V8, its a stringer 800 You are risking damaging that $950 shift cable. Seriously go to sterndrive.info and watch the videos, and go to outboardbooks.com to get a factory manual before going too much further

Bogging is fuel supply or carb What is fuel pressure? What powervalve did you install? Did you chase all passages with a fine wire?

Why do you need to replace the controls?

No need to pull lower, like bondo stated, only thing that does not turn in neutral is prop and prop shaft Forgetting the thrust washer gor the prop will be a rubbing and grinding noise when in gear

so you didnt do a proper job. like bondo stated, service the points, set the dwell (with a meter) and then set timing

unless the stock spring is changed in the PRV on the oil pump, the 0-5 bar gauge will be fine.

You heard wrong

Dads 1996 dodge had taken a turkey smack in the middle of a grill at 65 mph once. Took out the grill, radiator support and one headlight. 15# of bird will do some serious damage

On a 2012....rust/fatigue/freeze damage

Did you set timing?

Welcome aboard. We care less about the boat and more about which drive and motor ia in the boat as that is what determines the wiring schematic. So do you have a mercruiser, Volvo Penta or OMC?

doubt its the threads. however should be 1/2-20 on early pans and metric on later pans

early ones do not have the slide hammer threaded hole, later ones do. pull the keeper bolts, drive the pins inward with a brass drift.

the tank is to be bonded to the hull (usually a brass thru-hull) and the fuel fill and tie back to the engine block this is to prevent sparks when you fuel up. there should be green bonding wires should not matter if there is a battery or not.

pulsing is fuel related