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Prop diameter has so little to do with the prop performance compared to the pitch. I would drop down to a 19P

you may also need the mercruiser fuel test fitting if you are only getting 9 volts, you still have the ballast wire in the system. follow the igniter II instructions. however, as I stated prior, I would rebuild the distributors vs spending money on new ones.

in about a month and a half the resin supply will be back up. Lumber will be back down lower in about 3-4 months

Lower **** cable has gone up to $850 lately

First, welcome aboard You are looking for a needle in a haystack for the windshield. Bimini tops didnt exist in 1965. They came about 30 years later. So look in the iBoats store for aftermarket bimini tops

Do it your way and damage the boat Follow the manual which is just a bit more indepth than post #2 and 5 and you avoid damage. Pay particular attention to the correct method if disconnecting the lower shift cable.

i think they standardized on teh 3/4-16 of the Alpha.

depends on your span. the floor in my boat is 1/2" balsa with a bit more than 1/8" fiberglass on both sides. however the widest span is 36" and there are 1/2 x 1-1/2" ribs every 2 feet. if you have a short span, 1/2" would be enough with 3 layers of 1708

wont need much flow on the engine stand.

the alpha 1 pump will work with some half systems, however not full systems. who's kit are you running?

most of the plumbing is plastic fittings and pvc hose that are bolted to the livewells and deck prior to dropping the assembly into the boat. since the boat (and all the sub systems) are designed only to last about 15 years, the plastic fittings break, the hose crack, the plastic thru-hulls...

its right there in the picture, so it must be in your drive way. all the information you ever need is right there on the title. are you trying to find information on the boat with internet searches? remember, the internet only came about in the early 90's. so unless someone goes thru the...

use a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. that will tell you the health of your fuel pump is the carb inlet filter in good condition? is it clean? which pertronix kit? igniter - the one with the magnetic sleeve that sits on the cam lobe, igniter II - the one that reads the cam...

Being a 1984, you have a stringer drive. Remove outdrive, remove boot, unbolt stringer mounts andbpull motor and intermediate housing as a unit

I would say 15x15P based on the performance of the same motor in my searay and that was 3600# and used a 15x19P

202 duration intake 214 duration exhaust 395" lift intake 404" lift exhaust 112 lobe separation. from this post https://forums.iboats.com/threads/venturing-into-performance-upgrades-for-an-aq271c.489465/post-3456952

many times the 3.0 block cracks on the inside just above the pan rail

HP is generally how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you move the wall when you hit it. In the marine world, one must know the prop curve as well as the engine torque curve. been that way since the propeller was first turned by men with a manual crank. they need to match

Chris, if you look at post #1 in the sig, one of the first few links covered me swapping cams. in there is the mercruiser cam specs. regarding the 383 vs the 350. the 383 will have much more torque than the high RPM 350. your friend and his wife would need to have different impeller trims...

many times you can rotate the valve cover to clear the exhaust manifolds.