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Verify idle speed and mixture.

Ancient unit. Best as a display, not a running motor...

Tachometer pole settings: TLDI: All models: 4-pole setting 4-Strokes: 8/9.8hp: 6 pole setting 9.9hp to 30hp: 12 pole setting 40hp to 250 hp : 4 pole setting 2-Strokes: up to 40C: 4 pole setting 40D~90A: 6 pole setting 115~140: 12 pole setting

Could be a lot of things. Do a leak down test and check by cranking as matt suggested.

It should fit.

Definitely check the fuse.

I have a reprint of the 55B Factory service manual. PM me for more info.

I have never had any luck with seafoam, which is basically just mineral spirits. Yes, set idle speed correctly, then ajjust mixture, then readjust idle speed. repeat a few times, then set mixture about 1/8 turn richer for stability.

You need an RC box, throttle and shift cables, the SRC kit, and the hook plate and drag link. No real kits. I would suggest you get help from an outboard guy.

You can also ck temp with an IR thermometer.

Is it and MFS30A or B? Year is irrelevant.

OK, model is critical; year is irrelevant. Is it an MFS20D? That's carbureted. The E series is EFI.

Nope. Verify no issues with the kill switch circuit. Also should not start in gear.

Yes. Japanese motors are 2 or 3 inches longer than the old standard. It's a short.

What is the model? Older models had carbs. If EFI, what is the fuel rail pressure? Is there spark signal from the ECU?

Those props don't have replaceable hubs. Just install your spare prop.

Yes. if the old 9.8B, it will smoke at initial fireup. If an MFS9.8A or B it might be overfilled with oil, or over choked.

That's the high speed esg (rev limiter) loop. It's a faulty CD.

The 9.8 does not have an oil filter. I like to change around 10 or 20 hours initially, then every 50 thereafter. Same for the LU lube.

Both are 155 jets.